4 Song Dynasty Men’s Waist Accessories
The accessories worn by men, in addition to Yudai (鱼袋 ; yú dài) and Kuadai (銙带 ; kuǎ dài), also included Lebo (勒帛), Fuwei (腹围), cord belts with jade rings (玉环绦带), as well as brocade pouches and small purses (锦囊荷包). These accessories were worn around the waist or hung from the belt.
1. Lebo (勒帛 ; lè bó)
Lebo was made from silk fabrics such as ling (绫 ; líng), luo (罗 ; luó), chou (绸 ; chóu), and zhou (绉 ; zhòu), generally in red or purple, and was used to fasten brocade robes (锦袍 ; jǐn páo), belly binders (抱肚 ; bào dù), and Beizi (褙子 ; bèi zǐ). Cloth belts were usually used for Bianfu (便服 ; biàn fú) and were most commonly worn by scholar-officials. In addition to keeping garments neat, Lebo also served a decorative function.
2. Fuwei (腹围 ; fù wéi)
Fuwei was a long piece of cloth wrapped around the waist and abdomen, usable by both men and women. Its degree of complexity varied, with yellow regarded as the most precious color and therefore referred to at the time as “yellow at the waist” (腰上黄 ; yāo shàng huáng). Fuwei was usually made of plain silk or colored fabric, cut in a wide shape with the four corners rounded. More elaborate versions were decorated with colorful embroidery and edged with decorative borders. When worn, Fuwei was placed outside the robe, wrapped from the back to the front of the body, and then fastened with a leather belt or Lebo. It was first used by warriors and later commonly worn by civil and military officials as well as eunuchs and female palace attendants.
3. Cord Belt with Jade Ring (玉环绦带 ; yù huán tāo dài)
In the Song dynasty painting《护法天王图》(hù fǎ tiān wáng tú), a scholar is wearing a Zhiduo robe (直裰 ; zhí duō), with a cord belt around his waist adorned with a finely crafted crystal ring. His appearance looks relaxed and at ease, yet elegant, reflecting the calm and refined taste of the scholar-official class.
Rings attached to cord belts like this were extremely popular during the Song dynasty and were not restricted by social status; whether rich or poor, noble or commoner, all could use them. According to surviving artifacts, Song dynasty belt rings were mostly made of Hetian jade (和田玉 ; hé tián yù) or crystal, with common shapes including oval discs and begonia-flower forms. Moreover, like headscarf rings, the skilled craftsmen of the Song dynasty brought the decorative value of belt rings to its peak, carving motifs of flowers and birds, dragons, and knotted cords, perfectly integrating the arts of painting and sculpture while retaining practicality.
According to records in《西湖老人繁胜录》(xī hú lǎo rén fán shèng lù), the “Seven Treasures Society” (七宝社 ; qī bǎo shè) in Lin’an, which specialized in selling jewelry and precious objects, also sold jade belt rings. From officials and elegant scholars to minor functionaries and attendants, all were fond of these belt rings. This also reflects the calm, restrained spiritual pursuits and aesthetic sensibilities of the people of the Song dynasty. Simple and understated clothing, paired with a clear crystal belt ring or a finely carved jade belt ring—the saying “wearing coarse clothes while harboring jade within” perhaps describes this well.
4. Brocade Pouches and Small Purses (锦囊荷包 ; jǐn náng hé bāo)
Hanging pouches (Peinang 佩囊 ; pèi náng), brocade pouches (Jinnang 锦囊 ; jǐn náng), and eggplant-shaped pouches (Jiadai 茄袋 ; jiā dài) were pouches worn by men at the waist to hold coins, writing tools, and other small items. Peinang were mostly made of cloth or leather, while Jinnang were made of woven brocade. Jiadai was also called a “Shun bag” (顺袋 ; shùn dài), so named because its shape resembles a type of eggplant found in northern regions.
Source: 《我在宋朝穿什么》 by 陆蕾