Styles of Ancient Chinese Neck Accessories

Xiangquan (项圈 ; xiàng quān)

Xiangquan is one of the oldest ornaments in the world. Traditional Chinese Xiangquan are mostly circular, usually made of gold or silver, and can also be hung with longevity locks, jade, and others, each carrying its own meaning.

Xianglian (项链 ; xiàng liàn)

Xianglian (necklace) is a neck ornament strung with beads or pendants, commonly seen in the form of bead necklaces, gold–silver necklaces, jade necklaces, and others.

Yingluo (璎珞 ; yīng luò)

Yingluo was originally the neck ornament on Buddha statues in ancient India. After it entered China along with Buddhism, it became an accessory hung around the neck and draped over the chest in Han clothing.

Yingluo is strung with many small flowers. It is an ancient form of necklace from India, and during the Han dynasty, it entered China through Buddhism. In paintings, it is worn by Buddha statues, deities, and celestial maidens, and later also became the jewelry of noblewomen. The materials used were diverse, mainly gold, glass, agate, and pearls, and they symbolized “boundless light,” as well as the meaning of “beautiful jade.”

Longevity Lock (长命锁 ; cháng mìng suǒ)

The longevity lock is a traditional ornament in Chinese child-rearing culture, found throughout the region. Its material is usually gold, silver, or gemstones, made in the shape of a lock, with carvings such as “long life and wealth,” as well as patterns like qilin and lotus flowers, representing parents’ wishes for their child to avoid misfortune and receive blessings.

During the Ming and Qing periods, this was a popular neck ornament, widely used for children, symbolizing good fortune and long life.

Chaozhu (朝珠 ; cháo zhū)

A neck ornament worn by nobles in the Qing dynasty, based on Buddhist prayer beads, made from highly valuable materials. Chaozhu is a string of beads worn with the Qing dynasty’s formal attire, consisting of 108 main beads, with spacer beads every 27 beads, three additional bead strings on both sides, and a “back cloud” pendant at the back. The materials varied according to status, such as eastern pearls, jade, coral, and others. In sacrificial ceremonies, different materials were used to represent heaven, earth, the sun, and the moon.

The form of Chaozhu originated from Buddhist rosaries. After the Qing dynasty entered China, it was incorporated into the formal dress system.

Nianzhu (念珠 ; niàn zhū)

Also called “Shuzhu (数珠 ; shù zhū)” or “Fozhu (佛珠 ; fó zhū)”. In ancient China, Nianzhu was not only a tool for spiritual practice but also considered an auspicious object, and was sometimes used as a neck or wrist ornament.

Yet, what we’ve explored today is only a glimpse of the ancient Chinese women’s accessories. Beyond these pieces, there were countless accessories carrying stories of identity and beauty. I can’t wait to share more of these hidden treasures with you~