Styles of Ancient Chinese Women’s Accessories

In ancient China, besides hair, ear, and neck accessories, women also wore many other types of accessories. These included Bi Chuan for the arms, bracelet (Shou Zhuo) for the wrists, Ring (Jie Zhi) and Nail Guard / Nail Cover (Zhi Jia Tao) for the fingers, as well as jade pendant (Yu Pei) and sachet (Xiang Nang) worn at the waist.

Bi Chuan (臂钏 ; bì chuàn)

Ring- or spiral-shaped jewelry worn on the arm. Some were made from gold or silver strips coiled into circular forms. The number of coils varied: some had only two turns, while others consisted of many coils. At the ends, the bracelet was wrapped with thick thread as a fastening lock that could be slid left or right to adjust its tightness. There were also closed ring forms. Materials included gold, silver, jade, and others.

The surface could be decorated with floral patterns or left plain without carving. Bi Chuan was a highly feminine piece of jewelry, most suitable for women with fuller upper arms. The golden sheen of this arm bracelet highlighted skin as white as snow and enhanced the wearer’s softness and elegance.

Bi Chuan was also known as Chan Chuan (缠钏; chán chuàn), Tiaotuo (跳脱; tiào tuō), Tiaotuo (条脱; tiáo tuō), or Chan Bi Jin (缠臂金; chán bì jīn).

Bracelet (手镯 ; shǒu zhuó)

Ring-shaped jewelry worn on the wrist, either as a closed circular band or in a chain-like structure. The materials varied, commonly including gold, silver, jade, and other materials.

Ring (戒指 ; jiè zhǐ)

Rings have a long history in China and were known by various names such as Shou Ji (手记 ; shǒu jì), Yue Zhi (约指 ; yuē zhǐ), Qu Huan (驱环 ; qū huán), Dai Zhi (代指 ; dài zhǐ), and Zhi Huan (指环 ; zhǐ huán). It was only after the Ming dynasty that the term Jie Zhi (戒指) became more widely used.

Nail Guard / Nail Cover (指甲套 ; zhǐ jiǎ tào / 护甲套 ; hù jiǎ tào)

Nail guards were very commonly used among empresses and consorts in the inner palace during the Qing dynasty. With their intricate forms, they served to protect and decorate long fingernails. Some were even inlaid with gemstones.

In earlier periods, nail guards functioned primarily as protective tools, but during the Qing dynasty, they were more often used as decorative accessories.

Empresses and consorts of the Qing palace were particularly fond of growing long fingernails. Generally, growing a single nail to about one cun in length required more than half a year, and even slight carelessness could cause the nail to crack or break. To protect these long and slender nails, tubular covers were worn on the fingers—commonly known as finger guards.

Except for the thumb, which needed to remain flexible and unrestricted, the other fingers could be adorned with these ornaments. They could be worn symmetrically in pairs, or on only one hand, or even on a single finger. Nail guards used by Qing empresses and consorts were made from materials such as gold, silver, jade, tortoiseshell, copper, and enamel. Decorative techniques such as openwork carving, chasing, and inlay were used, with patterns gradually tapering from the base to the fingertip in a natural, flowing manner. The backs were mostly openwork and rarely sealed, allowing air circulation and preventing discomfort during summer.

Jade Pendant (玉佩 ; yù pèi)

One of the most common waist ornaments in ancient times, jade pendants were typically jade objects hung at the waist. In the past, jade pendants were items that nobles or officials were required to wear.

Sachet (香囊 ; xiāng náng)

Also known as a fragrant pouch or perfume bag, sachets were decorative items and daily accessories with strong cultural significance in ancient Chinese society. They were not only used for adornment, but were also believed to refresh the mind, ward off evil spirits, and prevent disease.

Yet, what we’ve explored today is only a small glimpse into the world of ancient Chinese women’s accessories. I can’t wait to share more of these hidden treasures with you.