Song Dynasty Pearl Makeup 珍珠妆: Why It Was Popular and How It Was Applied

Did you know that during the Song dynasty, women would stick pearls onto their faces? This unique style was known as Pearl Makeup.

Pearl Makeup (珍珠妆 ; zhēn zhū zhuāng): Adorning the forehead, temples, or cheeks with pearls.

In ancient China, women often used pigments to paint decorative shapes, or applied materials such as silk paper, gold, jade, and other items on their faces. The placement of the decorations is also very particular. The ones on the forehead are called Huadian, the ones on the corners of the mouth are called Mianye, and the ones on both sides of the temples (corners of the eyes) are called Xiehong.

Huadian, Mianye, and Xiehong were a popular makeup in the Tang dynasty.

Although the style of the Tang dynasty still had some influence in early Song, the trend gradually shifted. As the aesthetic preference moved toward elegance and delicacy, the once-popular Huadian—a decorative makeup element often seen in the Tang dynasty—began to fall out of favor.

In its place, pearls became the ideal choice. Women began adorning their foreheads, temples (corners of the eyes), and cheeks with pearls. This kind of makeup reflected the simplicity and low-key luxury that defined Song dynasty aesthetics.

Why Was Pearl Makeup Popular in the Song Dynasty?

Aesthetic Style of Elegance and Purity

The Song dynasty valued an aesthetic style that was elegant and delicate. Makeup elements commonly used in previous dynasties, such as Mianye, Ehuang, and Xiehong, were considered too flirtatious and glamorous for women of the Song dynasty. Therefore, beauty-loving women replaced those decorations with elegant pearls, leading to the trend of “Pearl Makeup”.

Advancement in Pearl Cultivation Techniques

In Wén Chāng Zá Lù (《文昌杂录》) by Pang Yuanying (庞元英 ; Páng Yuányīng) of the Song dynasty, the originators and detailed methods of pearl farming were documented. As these techniques matured and spread, pearls became more widely available—not just for makeup, but also in accessories, garments, and decorative objects.

A Flourishing Commodity Economy

Song dynasty literature often mentioned “Pearl Skirts (珠裙 ; zhū qún)” and “Pearl Shoes (珠鞋 ; zhū xié),” showing how deeply pearls had entered everyday life. From noble families to common folk, everyone loved using pearls as adornments. The widespread use of pearls during this time reflects the economic strength and prosperity of the Song dynasty.

What Was Used to Stick the Pearls On?

To apply Pearl Makeup, women used an adhesive called Hejiao (呵胶 ; hē jiāo), made from fish bladder. Hejiao was not only used for facial decorations but also for sticking feathers to arrows.

To remove the pearls, women simply applied warm water—making the process both convenient and gentle.