{"id":549,"date":"2023-01-25T01:11:04","date_gmt":"2023-01-24T17:11:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/?p=549"},"modified":"2024-08-23T14:38:24","modified_gmt":"2024-08-23T06:38:24","slug":"zhiduo-%e7%9b%b4%e8%a3%b0-ancient-china-writers-clothing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/549","title":{"rendered":"Zhiduo \u76f4\u88f0, Ancient China Writers Clothing"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Zhang<\/a><\/p>\n

Zhiduo (Chinese: \u76f4\u88f0 ; pinyin: zh\u00ed du\u014d, also called \u76f4\u6387 zh\u00ed du\u014d) originated from the Tang dynasty, and the clothes commonly worn since the Song dynasty.<\/p>\n

In ancient times, the zhiduo was worn by men, mostly monks, and writers.<\/p>\n

The Song dynasty zhiduo is generally not slit.<\/p>\n

In the Ming dynasty, the zhiduo had become very popular among literati and scholars, and the basic features of the Ming dynasty zhiduo were cross-collars, knee-length clothing, slits on both sides without Bai (\u6446 b\u01cei), generally with a collar guard on the collar, and mostly with pipe sleeves.<\/p>\n

\"Zhang<\/a><\/p>\n

Zhiduo didn\u2019t have Bai, so we could see the inner shirt or pants.<\/p>\n

Main features of Zhiduo:<\/h4>\n

1. The collar is jiaoling youren<\/p>\n

2. Can be sewn Huling (Chinese: \u62a4\u9886 ; pinyin: h\u00f9 l\u01d0ng) on the collar<\/p>\n

Sewn-in the collar area, mostly white and varying in width, to protect the collar from wear and stains.<\/p>\n

In ancient times, huling could be disassembled and replaced frequently.<\/p>\n

Much of the huling in contemporary hanfu is retained as traditional features.<\/p>\n

3. How to make zhiduo: Tongcai (Chinese: \u901a\u88c1 ; pinyin: t\u014dng c\u00e1i)<\/p>\n

Whole cut, with no seams on top and bottom<\/p>\n

4. Usually narrow arms, but there are also those with straight arms or pipes<\/p>\n

\"Zhang<\/a><\/p>\n

5. The length is knee-length, and the garment length and sleeve width vary according to the needs of the wearer<\/p>\n

6. The body of the garment is cut from the waist down, with no inside hem<\/p>\n

Inner hem: Folded with extra fabric on both sides of the slit, which can cover the inner layer of the garment to maintain a sense of dignity and also support the structure of the robe, making it more upright and stable<\/p>\n

The term zhiduo appeared in the Song dynasty but does not refer to the same garment at different times.<\/p>\n

During the Song dynasty, the zhiduo, also known as zhishen, with large sleeves, without gaps, and black trim around the hem, was worn by monks and writers.<\/p>\n

In the middle of the Ming dynasty<\/a>, a zhiduo phenomenon called the Taoist robe in an informal setting was documented, indicating a trend of changing clothing.<\/p>\n

When wearing a zhiduo, you can wear it with a belt, a skirt\/pants as underwear, a small hat, and shoes\/boots.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Zhiduo (Chinese: \u76f4\u88f0 ; pinyin: zh\u00ed du\u014d, also called \u76f4\u6387 zh\u00ed du\u014d) originated from the Tang dynasty, and the clothes...<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":38,"featured_media":550,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[454,40,435,43,44,45,458,600,96,99,86,520,521,246,622,586,250],"class_list":["post-549","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hanfu-guide","tag-bai","tag-chinese-clothing","tag-collars-in-hanfu","tag-hanfu","tag-hanzhuang","tag-huafu","tag-huling","tag-ming-dynasty","tag-ming-dynasty-hanfu","tag-song-dynasty-hanfu","tag-tang-dynasty-hanfu","tag-taoist-robe","tag-tongcai","tag-zhiduo","tag-622","tag-586","tag-250"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/549","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/38"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=549"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/549\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/550"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=549"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=549"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=549"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}