{"id":1450,"date":"2025-03-15T10:28:46","date_gmt":"2025-03-15T02:28:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/?p=1450"},"modified":"2025-07-12T10:50:41","modified_gmt":"2025-07-12T02:50:41","slug":"zhang-ruyings-notes-from%e3%80%8a%e4%b8%ad%e5%9b%bd%e5%a6%86%e6%9d%9f%ef%bc%9a%e5%a4%a7%e5%94%90%e5%a5%b3%e5%84%bf%e8%a1%8c%e3%80%8baccessories-tang-dynasty-kaiyuan-era-li-chui-%e6%9d%8e","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/1450","title":{"rendered":"Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1464\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - 1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1-200x200.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4>Table of Contents<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"#introduction\">Introduction<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#about\">About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#tangkaiyuan\">Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era: The Graceful and Gentle Imperial Princess<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#lichui\">Li Chui (\u674e\u5015)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#restoration\">Restoration Basis of the Image<\/a>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"#three\">Square floral ornaments for the bun, A pair of peacock-shaped floral crowns, Phoenix-shaped dangling hairpins<\/a>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"#baoji\">Introduction to Jewelry: Baoji (\u5b9d\u9afb) <\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#buyao\">Introduction to Jewelry: Buyao (\u6b65\u6447)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#evolutionbuyao\">The Evolution of Buyao<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#tombbuyao\">Buyao in Li Chu\u00ec\u2019s Tomb<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h4 id=\"introduction\">Introduction<\/h4>\n<p>Hello! Allow me to reintroduce myself,<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m \u5f20\u5112\u82f1 Zhang Ruying, and I have a deep passion for traditional Chinese fashion.<\/p>\n<p>Recently, I had the opportunity to read a book about traditional Chinese attire, especially for the Tang dynasty (618-907), written in Chinese, titled\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bby \u5de6\u4e18\u840c and \u672b\u6625. I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book, and to better understand parts of it, I translated sections that I found challenging. I also made notes (written in English) along the way to help deepen my understanding.<\/p>\n<p>Now, I\u2019m thrilled to share these notes with you! I aim to help us all gain a deeper appreciation for the elegance and historical significance of traditional Chinese attire, which is so rich in history and beauty.<\/p>\n<p>All the information in these notes comes from the book \u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b.<\/p>\n<p>This is for non-commercial purposes only. All rights remain with the original copyright holders.<\/p>\n<h4 id=\"about\">About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/tag\/%e3%80%8a%e4%b8%ad%e5%9b%bd%e5%a6%86%e6%9d%9f%ef%bc%9a%e5%a4%a7%e5%94%90%e5%a5%b3%e5%84%bf%e8%a1%8c%e3%80%8b\">\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/a>(Zh\u014dng Gu\u00f3 Zhu\u0101ng Sh\u00f9: D\u00e0 T\u00e1ng N\u01da\u2019\u00e9r X\u00edng) by \u5de6\u4e18\u840c (Zu\u01d2 Qi\u016bm\u00e9ng) and \u672b\u6625 (M\u00f2 Ch\u016bn) attempts to reinterpret the true fashion of women\u2019s makeup and attire during the Tang dynasty, based on archaeological findings of Tang artifacts.<\/p>\n<p>It contrasts these findings with historical records and unearthed documents to reframe how the Tang people themselves might have viewed fashion in their time.<\/p>\n<p>The book covers from the Sui dynasty to the Five Dynasties, and is divided into four sections: Qi Luo \u7eee\u7f57 (clothing), <strong>Lin Lang \u7433\u7405 (accessories)<\/strong>, Fen Dai \u7c89\u9edb (makeup), and Ji Huan \u9afb\u9b1f (hairstyles).<\/p>\n<p>Each section carefully examines and details the names, styles, and combinations of different makeup and attire from that period.<\/p>\n<p>The book selects well-known historical figures, such as Yang Guifei, Wu Zetian, Shangguan Wan\u2019er, Nie Yinniang, Princess Tongchang, and others, based on existing archaeological findings, makes informed speculations to restore the possible makeup and attire of these figures. The book reconstructs their clothing, accessories, hairstyles, makeup, and scenes, all supported by historical sources.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>Enough of the intro, let\u2019s get to the good part!<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1464\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - 1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-1-200x200.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4 id=\"tangkaiyuan\">\u76db\u5510\u5f00\u5143\uff1a\u5b97\u5973\u6dd1\u5a34<\/h4>\n<p>Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era: The Graceful and Gentle Imperial Princess<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1460\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1460\" style=\"width: 1220px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-a.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1460\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-a.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - a\" width=\"1220\" height=\"1772\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-a.jpg 1220w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-a-207x300.jpg 207w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-a-705x1024.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-a-768x1115.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-a-1058x1536.jpg 1058w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1220px) 100vw, 1220px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1460\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a154<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h4 id=\"lichui\">Li Chui (\u674e\u5015 ; L\u01d0 Chu\u00ed)<\/h4>\n<p>In 2001, the Shaanxi Provincial Institute of Archaeology excavated a small Tang dynasty tomb on the southern outskirts of Xi&#8217;an. Based on the tomb inscription, it was determined that the tomb&#8217;s owner was a woman from the Tang imperial family with the surname Li, named Chui (\u5015 ; Chu\u00ed), with the courtesy name Shuxian (\u6dd1\u5a34 ; Sh\u016bxi\u00e1n). She was buried in the 24th year of the Kaiyuan era of the Tang dynasty (736).<\/p>\n<p>This tomb was not very luxurious. Compared to the tombs of officials&#8217; wives or noblewomen from the same period, it even appeared quite simple. However, the jewelry and makeup accessories buried with her were extraordinarily exquisite and rare. She wore a belt adorned with pearl strands and floral ornaments, as well as a golden crown inlaid with pearls, shell, turquoise, agate, crystal, and ruby.<\/p>\n<p>Compared to the jewelry of noblewomen from the same era found in archaeological excavations, this collection was even more luxurious.<\/p>\n<p>The stark contrast between the simplicity of the tomb and the opulence of the items buried with her is difficult to explain based solely on the brief biographical inscription on her tombstone. Therefore, her life story will be reconstructed based on the sequence of events recorded in the inscription, with slight interpretation and refinement, ensuring historical accuracy while maintaining an engaging narrative.<\/p>\n<p>Li Chui\u2019s (\u674e\u5015) father was Li Jin (\u674e\u6d25 ; L\u01d0 J\u012bn), who held the title of Heir Prince of Shu (\u55e3\u8212\u738b ; s\u00ec sh\u016b w\u00e1ng). The title Si Wang (\u55e3\u738b ; s\u00ec w\u00e1ng) was typically given to the crown prince of a noble who lawfully inherited his father\u2019s title. However, Li Jin\u2019s journey to obtaining this title was rather unique. Li Jin\u2019s grandfather, Li Yuanming (\u674e\u5143\u540d ; L\u01d0 Yu\u00e1nm\u00edng), was the 18th son of Emperor Gaozu (\u674e\u6e0a ; L\u01d0 Yu\u0101n) of the Tang dynasty and was granted the title Prince of Shu (\u8212\u738b ; sh\u016b w\u00e1ng). His father, Li Yi (\u674e\u5b9c ; L\u01d0 Y\u00ed), was given the title Prince of Xiang Zhang (\u50cf\u7ae0\u90e1\u738b ; xi\u00e0ng zh\u0101ng j\u00f9n w\u00e1ng). However, both of them perished in the massacre of the imperial Li family that occurred during the reign of Wu Zetian.<\/p>\n<p>It was only after Emperor Zhongzong regained the throne that Li Yuanming&#8217;s noble title was restored. However, by that time, all of Li Yuanming\u2019s sons had passed away, so his eldest surviving grandson, Li Jin, ultimately inherited his grandfather\u2019s title and became the Heir Prince of Shu (\u55e3\u8212\u738b).<\/p>\n<p>In the second year of the Xiantian era (713), Li Jin had a second daughter, whom he named Chui (\u5015). She was of the same lineage as Emperor Xuanzong Li Longji (\u674e\u9686\u57fa ; L\u01d0 L\u00f3ngj\u012b), as they belonged to the same family branch. According to Tang dynasty regulations, the daughter of a prince was entitled to the title Xianzhu (\u53bf\u4e3b ; Xi\u00e0nzh\u01d4), which means &#8220;County Princess&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>As a noble princess from the imperial family, Li Chui (\u674e\u5015) was raised from a young age to embody the virtues of gentleness and obedience, which were considered ideal for an honorable woman. For this reason, she has bestowed the courtesy name &#8220;Shuxian (\u6dd1\u5a34)&#8221;, meaning &#8220;graceful and refined&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>However, upon reaching adulthood (\u53ca\u7b04 j\u00ed j\u012b, around 15 years old), Li Chui did not choose a marriage that matched her noble status as her family had expected. Perhaps, having witnessed the lives of high-ranking officials and nobles filled with wives and concubines, she longed for a love that was faithful and mutually supportive. With strong determination, she defied her family\u2019s wishes and, without hesitation, married the man she loved\u2014a man from a humble family with the surname Hou Mo Chen (\u4faf\u83ab\u9648 ; H\u00f3u M\u00f2 Ch\u00e9n).<\/p>\n<p>For the sake of love, Li Chui had to struggle greatly and was even willing to renounce her title of &#8220;Xianzhu (County Princess)&#8221; and her noble status. On her wedding day, she might not have worn the grand bridal attire befitting a Xianzhu. However, the Hou Mo Chen family, with great care, still prepared beautiful and honorable wedding jewelry and clothing for her.<\/p>\n<p>Although the Hou Mo Chen (\u4faf\u83ab\u9648) family was not of high nobility, they were still relatively well-off. Their residence was located in Shengye Fang (\u80dc\u4e1a\u574a ; Sh\u00e8ngy\u00e8 F\u0101ng), a bustling district in the capital, Chang\u2019an. Li Chui\u2019s husband worked as a minor official at Hongwen Guan (\u5f18\u6587\u9986 ; H\u00f3ngw\u00e9n Gu\u01cen), an institution responsible for compiling books and educating scholarly students. The couple enjoyed several years of a peaceful and happy life together.<\/p>\n<p>However, in the 24th year of the Kaiyuan era (736), when Li Chui had just given birth to a baby boy (\u8941\u8913, still in infancy), she suddenly fell ill. Despite all the treatments given, nothing could save her, and on the 7th day of the first month, she passed away at a young age\u2014only 25 years old.<\/p>\n<p>Due to the limited social status of the Hou Mo Chen family, they could not hold a grand funeral or use luxurious burial items due to dynastic regulations. Her husband, holding their infant child in his arms, wept bitterly beside her coffin. Gazing at the simple funeral furnishings in the tomb, he felt as if he had failed her. Overcome with sorrow and regret, he placed all of Li Chui\u2019s finest jewelry and makeup accessories into her coffin, so that in her eternal rest, she would appear just as she did on their wedding day\u2014dressed beautifully and shining as she once had.<\/p>\n<p>More than a thousand years later, people were captivated by the extraordinary beauty of the jewelry found in Li Chui\u2019s tomb. She was even mistakenly referred to as a &#8220;Tang Dynasty Imperial Princess&#8221; in various media reports.<\/p>\n<p>However, few realized that this woman, who lived during the golden age of the Tang dynasty, had once experienced the pain of love constrained by her status. When faced with her tomb\u2014so strikingly contrasting in its simplicity yet filled with luxurious jewelry\u2014many could not understand why a woman from the imperial family held no honorary title. It was even harder for them to grasp the reasons behind the extraordinary choices she made in her life.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1459\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1459\" style=\"width: 1012px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-b.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1459\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-b.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - b\" width=\"1012\" height=\"1516\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-b.jpg 1012w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-b-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-b-684x1024.jpg 684w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-b-768x1150.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1012px) 100vw, 1012px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1459\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Square floral ornaments for the bun, peacock floral crowns, phoenix hairpins, jade pendants (Various headdress components unearthed from Li Chui\u2019s tomb) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a158<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h4 id=\"restoration\">Restoration Basis of the Image<\/h4>\n<p>Li Chui (\u674e\u5015)&#8217;s tomb was well-preserved, and the relative positioning of the various pieces of jewelry found within it was quite clear. This allowed for the preservation of much of the original information regarding how they were worn.<\/p>\n<p>During the excavation, archaeologists carefully documented the placement of the jewelry and extracted the surrounding soil intact to be taken to the laboratory. There, experts from Germany carried out the restoration process on the jewelry. Today, these artifacts have been successfully restored through a collaboration between Chinese and German teams.<\/p>\n<p>However, since the tomb experienced water infiltration in its early period, it is possible that some of the head ornaments worn by Li Chui shifted from their original positions. Therefore, the reconstructed arrangement after restoration still contains certain aspects open to debate.<\/p>\n<p>To achieve a more accurate depiction, the reconstruction of Li Chui\u2019s head ornaments was carried out by referencing Tang dynasty literature and iconography. This approach allows us to approximate how her original headpiece was worn.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1458\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1458\" style=\"width: 1054px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-c.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1458\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-c.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - c\" width=\"1054\" height=\"794\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-c.jpg 1054w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-c-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-c-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-c-768x579.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1054px) 100vw, 1054px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1458\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Schematic diagram of the headdress combination unearthed from Li Chui\u2019s tomb (The author of this book redraws it according to the archaeological report) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a160<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h4 id=\"three\">Square floral ornaments for the bun, A pair of peacock-shaped floral crowns, Phoenix-shaped dangling hairpins<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Square floral ornaments for the bun (\u65b9\u80dc\u82b1\u94bf\u88c5\u5b9d\u9afb ; f\u0101ng sh\u00e8ng hu\u0101 di\u00e0n zhu\u0101ng b\u01ceo j\u00ec),<\/li>\n<li>A pair of peacock-shaped floral crowns (\u5bf9\u5b54\u96c0\u8854\u82b1\u51a0\u5b50 ; du\u00ec k\u01d2ng qu\u00e8 xi\u00e1n hu\u0101 gu\u0101n z\u01d0),<\/li>\n<li>Phoenix-shaped dangling hairpins (\u51e4\u9e1f\u6b65\u6447\u5b9d\u9497 ; f\u00e8ng ni\u01ceo b\u00f9 y\u00e1o b\u01ceo ch\u0101i)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The jewelry that remained well-preserved was the spherical ornaments scattered across the top of the head. At the center of the forehead was a Fangsheng (\u65b9\u80dc ; f\u0101ng sh\u00e8ng), shaped like a gold and silver basket, surrounded by floral decorations of various sizes that overlapped in a crisscross pattern. This jewelry was originally attached to fabric and could be directly worn over the head, forming a luxurious bun (\u5b9d\u9afb ; b\u01ceo j\u00ec).<\/p>\n<p>At the back of the bun, this jewelry was secured with an H-shaped gilded copper hairpin. There were also two identical phoenix-headed hairpins, made of gold and adorned with green jade, which were meant to be positioned on the left and right sides of the bun. On both sides of the phoenix hairpins, there were curved floral branch ornaments with small dangling jade pieces.<\/p>\n<p>The front part of the bun (\u5b9d\u9afb ; b\u01ceo j\u00ec) was primarily composed of a pair of peacock wings and tails made of interwoven gold threads, facing each other. In the center was a jeweled floral ring wrapped with gold wire. At the very bottom, a lotus-shaped base adorned with multicolored gemstone pendants hung from small flowers. Since the organic materials forming the peacock\u2019s body had decayed over time, the reconstruction references depictions of two peacocks biting floral branches on a silver box from the Hejiacun site and another silver box from the Chen family tomb in Yingshan, Luoyang. These depict peacocks holding floral branches and vines in their beaks. Based on this, it is believed that the original arrangement consisted of two facing peacocks biting a jeweled floral ring. Together, these two peacocks and the lotus base formed a floral crown.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1457\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1457\" style=\"width: 1012px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-d.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1457\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-d.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - d\" width=\"1012\" height=\"550\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-d.jpg 1012w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-d-300x163.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-d-768x417.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1012px) 100vw, 1012px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1457\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Line-engraved patterns on a silver box from the Hejiacun cellar in Shaanxi \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a161<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1456\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1456\" style=\"width: 1006px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-e.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1456\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-e.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - e\" width=\"1006\" height=\"306\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-e.jpg 1006w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-e-300x91.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-e-768x234.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1006px) 100vw, 1006px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1456\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decoration of the silver flat lacquer box from the Chen family tomb in Yingchuan, Luoyang \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a161<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Looking at Tang dynasty poetry, descriptions of women\u2019s head ornaments align closely with this reconstruction. In\u300a\u70e7\u9999\u66f2\u300b(sh\u0101o xi\u0101ng q\u016b) by Li Shangyin, a woman\u2019s headdress is described with the words:<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;<em>\u94bf\u4e91\u87e0\u87e0\u7259\u6bd4\u9c7c\uff0c\u5b54\u96c0\u7fc5\u5c3e\u86df\u9f99\u987b\u3002<\/em>&#8221;<br \/>\n&#8220;<em>The cloud patterns are like fish with curved teeth, the peacock wings and tail resemble the whiskers of a dragon.<\/em>&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>This suggests that Huadian (\u82b1\u94bf hu\u0101 di\u00e0n, floral ornaments) were embedded with ivory and fish-bone inlays, while peacock wings and tails were crafted from twisted gold wires resembling dragon whiskers.<\/p>\n<p>Similarly, in\u300a\u5f52\u56fd\u8c23\u300b(gu\u012b gu\u00f3 y\u00e1o) by Wen Tingyun, it is written:<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;<em>\u7fe0\u51e4\u5b9d\u9497\u5782\u7c0f\u7c0c\uff0c\u94bf\u7b50\u4ea4\u80dc\u91d1\u7c9f\u3002<\/em>&#8221;<br \/>\n&#8220;<em>The emerald phoenix hairpin sways gently, the sound of its tassels soft and clear. The jeweled hairpin basket intertwines, more dazzling than golden millet.<\/em>&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>This describes a jade-adorned phoenix hairpin, while the Fangsheng-shaped floral basket was filled with golden millet decorations.<\/p>\n<p>These poetic descriptions closely resemble Li Chui\u2019s head ornaments, providing an accurate depiction of how Tang dynasty women\u2019s headdresses looked\u2014especially the one found in Li Chui\u2019s tomb.<\/p>\n<h5 id=\"baoji\">Introduction to Jewelry: Baoji (\u5b9d\u9afb ; b\u01ceo j\u00ec)<\/h5>\n<p><em>\u5b9d\u9afb\u504f\u5b9c\u5bab\u6837\uff0c\u83b2\u8138\u5ae9\uff0c\u4f53\u7ea2\u9999\u3002\u7709\u9edb\u4e0d\u987b\u5f20\u655e\u753b\uff0c\u5929\u6559\u5165\u9b13\u957f\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u83ab\u501a\u503e\u56fd\u8c8c\uff0c\u5ac1\u53d6\u4e2a\uff0c\u6709\u60c5\u90ce\u3002\u5f7c\u6b64\u5f53\u5e74\u5c11\uff0c\u83ab\u8d1f\u597d\u65f6\u5149\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\uff08\u5510\uff09\u674e\u9686\u57fa\u300a\u597d\u65f6\u5149\u300b<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;Do not rely solely on captivating beauty, choose a partner with a loving heart.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>While you are still young, do not waste these beautiful times.&#8221;<\/em><br \/>\n\u2014 (Tang dynasty) Li Longji,\u300a\u597d\u65f6\u5149\u300b(h\u01ceo sh\u00ed gu\u0101ng)<\/p>\n<p>Emperor Tang Xuanzong, Li Longji, once composed the song\u300a\u597d\u65f6\u5149\u300b(h\u01ceo sh\u00ed gu\u0101ng), and the lyrics &#8220;<em>While you are still young, do not waste these beautiful times<\/em>&#8221; perfectly capture the essence of Li Chui&#8217;s life. Meanwhile, the ornaments in her hair also align with the beauty described in the lyrics, creating a striking visual impression of feminine elegance.<\/p>\n<p>Her bun was adorned with various gold, silver, and gemstone ornaments, forming what was known as Baoji (\u5b9d\u9afb). This hairstyle could be arranged using natural hair styled and decorated, or it could be an artificial bun that was pre-decorated and attached using hairpins or needles. As described in\u300a\u8d34\u7f8e\u4eba\u300b(ti\u0113 m\u011bi r\u00e9n) by Zhang Xiaobiao: &#8220;<em>A bun adorned with gold and jade<\/em>&#8220;.<\/p>\n<p>Similarly, in a Tang manuscript found in the Mogao Caves at Dunhuang,\u300a\u4e91\u8c23\u96c6\u6742\u66f2\u5b50 \u00b7 \u629b\u7403\u4e50\u300b(y\u00fan y\u00e1o j\u00ed z\u00e1 q\u01d4 z\u01d0 \u00b7 p\u0101o qi\u00fa l\u00e8) mentions: &#8220;<em>The Baoji hairpin dangles at the temple, so charming, far surpassing the beauty of the women of Shangyang<\/em>&#8220;.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1455\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1455\" style=\"width: 322px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-f.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1455\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-f.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - f\" width=\"322\" height=\"674\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-f.jpg 322w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-f-143x300.jpg 143w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 322px) 100vw, 322px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1455\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the Tang dynasty manuscript\u300a\u4e91\u96c6\u6742\u66f2\u5b50\u300b \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a162<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The adornments on Baoji (\u5b9d\u9afb) mainly consisted of various types of golden baskets decorated with Huadian (\u82b1\u94bf) floral ornaments and peacock motifs. Aside from Li Chui\u2019s well-preserved headpiece, a relatively intact headdress with its original position preserved was also discovered in a Tang tomb from the Kaiyuan period in Baofeng, Henan.<\/p>\n<p>At the center of the Baoji, there was a long-plumed golden bird adorned with gemstones, along with an upright gold-plated copper coin. Additionally, small floral ornaments made from twisted gold wires were present. On both sides of the Baoji, there was a pair of gold hairpins with Huadian designs embedded with gemstones, neatly arranged on the left and right of the bun.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1454\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1454\" style=\"width: 1058px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-g.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1454\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-g.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - g\" width=\"1058\" height=\"454\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-g.jpg 1058w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-g-300x129.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-g-1024x439.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-g-768x330.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1058px) 100vw, 1058px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1454\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Headdress unearthed from a Tang dynasty tomb in Xiaodian, Baofeng, Henan \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a163<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1453\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1453\" style=\"width: 1040px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-h.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1453\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-h.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - h\" width=\"1040\" height=\"378\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-h.jpg 1040w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-h-300x109.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-h-1024x372.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-h-768x279.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1040px) 100vw, 1040px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1453\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Headdress unearthed from the tomb of the Jinxiang Xianzhu \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a163<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In the tomb of Jinxiang Xianzhu (\u91d1\u4e61\u53bf\u4e3b ; J\u012bnxi\u0101ng Xi\u00e0nzh\u01d4) from the 12th year of Kaiyuan (724) and the tomb of Su, the wife of Lieutenant Liu Fujun in Shahe (\u6c99\u6cb3\u53bf\u5c09\u5218\u5e9c\u541b\u592b\u4eba\u82cf\u6c0f) from the 17th year of Kaiyuan (729), fragments of Huadian (\u82b1\u94bf) were found scattered. These Huadian pieces often featured various gemstones such as coral, amber, agate, colored glass, pearls, and Sese (\u745f\u745f ; s\u00e8 s\u00e8), as well as ornaments made from polished fish bones, ivory, and shells.<\/p>\n<p>Among all the gemstones discovered, the most famous was the green-colored stone originating from Persia and Liangzhou, known as Sese (\u745f\u745f). In a Tang manuscript found in the Mogao Caves at Dunhuang,\u300a\u6566\u714c\u5eff\u548f\u300b(d\u016bn hu\u00e1ng ni\u00e0n y\u01d2ng) includes a poem titled\u300a\u745f\u745f\u548f\u300b(s\u00e8 s\u00e8 y\u01d2ng), which specifically mentions the use of Sese in jewelry:<\/p>\n<p><em>\u745f\u745f\u7126\u5c71\u4e0b\uff0c\u60a0\u60a0\u91c7\u51e0\u5e74\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u4e3a\u73e0\u60ac\u5b9d\u9afb\uff0c\u4f5c\u749e\u95f4\u91d1\u94bf\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u8272\u5165\u9752\u9704\u91cc\uff0c\u5149\u6d6e\u9ed1\u789b\u8fb9\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u4e16\u4eba\u504f\u91cd\u6b64\uff0c\u8c01\u5ff5\u695a\u6750\u8d24\u3002<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;Beneath Mount Jiao, gathered slowly over years,<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Becoming pearls that hang upon the Baoji, forged with metal and gems.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Its color reaches the blue sky, and its radiance gleams upon the black stone\u2019s edge.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>The world treasures this above all\u2014who still remembers the wise men of Chu?&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1452\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1452\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-i.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1452\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-i.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - i\" width=\"1034\" height=\"360\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-i.jpg 1034w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-i-300x104.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-i-1024x357.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-i-768x267.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1034px) 100vw, 1034px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1452\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tang dynasty manuscript of\u300a\u6566\u714c\u5eff\u548f \u00b7 \u745f\u745f\u548f\u300b \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a164<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h5 id=\"buyao\">Introduction to Jewelry: Buyao (\u6b65\u6447 ; b\u00f9 y\u00e1o)<\/h5>\n<p>On both sides of the Baoji on Li Chui\u2019s head, there are small ornaments in the shape of birds standing on flower branches, with tiny dangling beads that can move. According to artifact restoration experts, these ornaments may have originally been placed at the temples or could be components of a popular piece of jewelry at the time called Buyao (\u6b65\u6447 ; b\u00f9 y\u00e1o).<\/p>\n<p>Buyao is a type of jewelry that hangs from the tip of a jade phoenix hairpin, and as a woman walks slowly, the ornament moves with her steps on the sides of her chignon. As recorded in\u300a\u4e8b\u7269\u7eaa\u539f\u300b(sh\u00ec w\u00f9 j\u00ec yu\u00e1n) by Gao Cheng during the Song dynasty:<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;<em>During the Kaiyuan era, when women met their parents-in-law, they wore Buyao and fastened jade phoenix hairpins.<\/em>&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Similar imagery was also found in the Mogao Caves in Dunhuang, particularly in the murals of Cave 130,\u300a\u90fd\u7763\u592b\u4eba\u592a\u539f\u738b\u6c0f\u4e00\u5fc3\u4f9b\u517b\u300b(d\u016b d\u016b f\u016b r\u00e9n t\u00e0i yu\u00e1n w\u00e1ng sh\u00ec y\u012b x\u012bn g\u00f2ng y\u01ceng), which depict a group of women wearing Buyao as part of their attire.<\/p>\n<h5 id=\"evolutionbuyao\">The Evolution of Buyao<\/h5>\n<p>In the past, the term Buyao referred to a hairpin or hair clasp adorned with various types of dangling golden flowers, such as those worn by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/1431\">Lady Yang, the wife of Prince Wu<\/a>, who used gold flower hairpins made of fine gold threads. However, since the peak period of the Tang dynasty, the meaning of Buyao expanded and became a more general term for all types of hair clasps or hairpins with dangling ornaments.<\/p>\n<p>For example, in\u300a\u5bab\u4e2d\u4e50\u300b(g\u014dng zh\u014dng l\u00e8) by Zhang Zhongsu (\u5f20\u4ef2\u7d20 ; Zh\u0101ng Zh\u00f2ngs\u00f9), it is written &#8220;<em>\u73e0\u9497\u6302\u6b65\u6447<\/em>&#8220;, means pearl hairpins dangle with Buyao).<\/p>\n<p>Tang historian Yao Runeng (\u59da\u6c5d\u80fd ; Y\u00e1o R\u01d4n\u00e9ng) also recorded that during the early Tianbao era (\u5929\u5b9d), the fashion among women was: &#8220;<em>\u5987\u4eba\u5219\u7c2a\u6b65\u6447<\/em>&#8220;, means women at that time wore Buyao).<\/p>\n<h5 id=\"tombbuyao\">Buyao in Li Chui\u2019s Tomb<\/h5>\n<p>In Li Chui\u2019s tomb, a pair of finely carved jade ornaments was also discovered, which were likely pendants from a Buyao. These may be a continuation of the tradition of women\u2019s headdress ornaments that had developed since the reign of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/tag\/wu-zetian\">Wu Zetian<\/a>, the first female emperor in Chinese history.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1451\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1451\" style=\"width: 432px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-j.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1451\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-j.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories (Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era, Li Chui \u674e\u5015) - j\" width=\"432\" height=\"1256\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-j.jpg 432w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-j-103x300.jpg 103w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bAccessories-Tang-Dynasty-Kaiyuan-Era-Li-Chui-\u674e\u5015-j-352x1024.jpg 352w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 432px) 100vw, 432px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1451\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u90fd\u7763\u592b\u4eba\u592a\u539f\u738b\u6c0f\u5973\u5341\u4e09\u5a18\u5934\u9970\uff08\u6bb5\u6587\u6770\u5893\u672c\uff09\u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . <em>\u4e2d\u56fd<\/em>\u5986\u675f\uff1a<em>\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c<\/em> . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a165<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<hr \/>\n<h4>And there you have it\u2014<\/h4>\n<p>I hope these notes have been insightful and encourage you to dive deeper into the world of traditional Chinese fashion, particularly from the Tang dynasty. If you come across any incorrect word \/ translation, or you have suggestions for improvement, please don\u2019t hesitate to reach out to me via <a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/contact\">email<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Thank you so much for your time, and I\u2019ll do my best to keep these updated for the next part.<\/p>\n<p>(<a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/category\/zhang-ruyings-notes\">#ZhangRuying\u2019sNotes<\/a> for more notes)<\/p>\n<p>See you in the next notes. And thank you \u8c22\u8c22!<\/p>\n<p>\u5f20\u5112\u82f1 Zhang Ruying<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Table of Contents Introduction About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan Era: The Graceful and Gentle Imperial Princess Li Chui (\u674e\u5015) Restoration Basis&#46;&#46;&#46;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":38,"featured_media":1464,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,1006],"tags":[1001,22,26,1013,1034,619,1031,122,1000,1004,1005,1035],"class_list":["post-1450","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-traditional-chinese-fashion","category-zhang-ruyings-notes","tag-1001","tag-chinese-accessories","tag-hanfu-accessories","tag-kaiyuan-era","tag-li-chui","tag-tang-dynasty","tag-tang-dynasty-accessories","tag-tang-dynasty-headwear","tag-zhang-ruyings-notes","tag-1004","tag-1005","tag-1035"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1450","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/38"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1450"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1450\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1464"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1450"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1450"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1450"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}