{"id":1377,"date":"2025-01-25T01:11:09","date_gmt":"2025-01-24T17:11:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/?p=1377"},"modified":"2025-07-12T10:49:45","modified_gmt":"2025-07-12T02:49:45","slug":"zhang-ruyings-notes-from%e3%80%8a%e4%b8%ad%e5%9b%bd%e5%a6%86%e6%9d%9f%ef%bc%9a%e5%a4%a7%e5%94%90%e5%a5%b3%e5%84%bf%e8%a1%8c%e3%80%8bclothing-late-tang-dynasty-%e6%99%9a%e5%94%90-five-dyna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/1377","title":{"rendered":"Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &#038; Five Dynasties)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1400\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - 1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1-200x200.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4>Table of Contents<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"#introduction\">Introduction<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#about\">About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#latetangfive\">Late Tang Dynasty (\u665a\u5510) and Five Dynasties: Recalling The Past After Meeting Among Flowers<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#pishan\">Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b ; p\u012b sh\u0101n)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#kedang\">Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6 ; k\u00e8 d\u0101ng)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#kuchangqun\">Ku\/Trousers (\u88b4 ; k\u00f9) and Long Skirt<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#huachanqunhuabixi\">Hua Chanqun (\u82b1\u895c\u88d9 ; hu\u0101 ch\u0101n q\u00fan) (Knee-Covering Skirt (\u82b1\u853d\u819d ; hu\u0101 b\u00ec x\u012b))<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h4 id=\"introduction\">Introduction<\/h4>\n<p>Hello,<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m \u5f20\u5112\u82f1 Zhang Ruying, and I have a deep passion for traditional Chinese clothing.<\/p>\n<p>Recently, I came across a fascinating book titled<strong>\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/strong>by \u5de6\u4e18\u840c and \u672b\u6625. The book delves into the intricate fashion and beauty practices of the Tang dynasty (618-907), and I found it incredibly insightful. To better understand parts of it, I translated sections that I found challenging. I also made notes (written in English) along the way to help deepen my understanding.<\/p>\n<p>Now, I\u2019m thrilled to share these notes with you! I aim to help us all gain a deeper appreciation for the elegance and historical significance of traditional Chinese attire, which is so rich in history and beauty.<\/p>\n<p>All the information in these notes comes from the book \u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b.<\/p>\n<p>This is for non-commercial purposes only. All rights remain with the original copyright holders.<\/p>\n<h4 id=\"about\">About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/tag\/%e3%80%8a%e4%b8%ad%e5%9b%bd%e5%a6%86%e6%9d%9f%ef%bc%9a%e5%a4%a7%e5%94%90%e5%a5%b3%e5%84%bf%e8%a1%8c%e3%80%8b\">\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/a>(Zh\u014dng Gu\u00f3 Zhu\u0101ng Sh\u00f9: D\u00e0 T\u00e1ng N\u01da\u2019\u00e9r X\u00edng) by \u5de6\u4e18\u840c (Zu\u01d2 Qi\u016bm\u00e9ng) and \u672b\u6625 (M\u00f2 Ch\u016bn) attempts to reinterpret the true fashion of women\u2019s makeup and attire during the Tang dynasty, based on archaeological findings of Tang artifacts.<\/p>\n<p>It contrasts these findings with historical records and unearthed documents to reframe how the Tang people themselves might have viewed fashion in their time.<\/p>\n<p>The book covers from the Sui dynasty to the Five Dynasties, and is divided into four sections: Qi Luo \u7eee\u7f57 (clothing), Lin Lang \u7433\u7405 (accessories), Fen Dai \u7c89\u9edb (makeup), and Ji Huan \u9afb\u9b1f (hairstyles).<\/p>\n<p>Each section carefully examines and details the names, styles, and combinations of different makeup and attire from that period.<\/p>\n<p>The book selects well-known historical figures, such as Yang Guifei, Wu Zetian, Shangguan Wan\u2019er, Nie Yinniang, Princess Tongchang, and others, based on existing archaeological findings, makes informed speculations to restore the possible makeup and attire of these figures. The book reconstructs their clothing, accessories, hairstyles, makeup, and scenes, all supported by historical sources.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>And here, I present Part 5, which is the final section of the Qi Luo \u7eee\u7f57 (Clothing).<\/p>\n<p>(<a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/category\/zhang-ruyings-notes\">#ZhangRuying\u2019sNotes<\/a> for the previous notes)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1400\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - 1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-1-200x200.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4 id=\"latetangfive\">\u665a\u5510\u4e94\u4ee3\uff1a\u5fc6\u6614\u82b1\u95f4\u76f8\u89c1\u540e<\/h4>\n<p>Late Tang Dynasty (\u665a\u5510) and Five Dynasties: Recalling The Past After Meeting Among Flowers<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1397\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1397\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-a.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1397\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-a.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - a\" width=\"500\" height=\"469\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-a.png 500w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-a-300x281.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1397\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a107<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>With the\u300a\u82b1\u95f4\u96c6\u300b(Hu\u0101 Ji\u0101n J\u00ed) as a representation, this refined and graceful style of poetry developed during the Late Tang dynasty and reached its peak during the Five Dynasties period.<\/p>\n<p>It originally consisted of a collection of lyrics intended for singers, containing popular lyrical works from the late Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties.<\/p>\n<p>This melancholic melody carries the sound of sorrow from a fallen country, with much grief caused by separation and longing, as well as a sense of loss of the homeland, which can only be momentarily alleviated by the imagery of &#8220;scattered flowers and almost finished wine,&#8221; weaving personal sadness into words that transform softly, like silk and elegant fine cloth.<\/p>\n<p>In terms of clothing, the\u300a\u82b1\u95f4\u96c6\u300balso serves as an excellent reference text for understanding women&#8217;s fashion and makeup trends during the Late Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties period.<\/p>\n<p>To trace the various garments and jewelry mentioned in these poems, we can refer to archaeological findings and paintings from the same era.<\/p>\n<p>Archaeological discoveries at the Famen Temple (\u6cd5\u95e8\u5bfa ; F\u01cem\u00e9n S\u00ec) also provide an opportunity to compare physical objects with descriptions found in poetry and paintings, allowing for a clearer understanding.<\/p>\n<p>At Famen Temple, many garments were discovered, most of which came from royal offerings during the Late Tang dynasty. Although most of these silk fabrics were damaged and charred when they were found, the process of cleaning and revealing them was very difficult. However, textile archaeologists were able to extract seven pieces of clothing worn by noblewomen from one of the piles of garments found, including two pairs of trousers, two long skirts, one top with a wide collar and short sleeves, and two pieces of long dresses worn in layers. Additionally, some garments were as thin as locust wings.<\/p>\n<p>All of these findings provide a glimpse into the beauty of the flowers.<\/p>\n<p>Based on the records in the\u300a\u968f\u771f\u8eab\u8863\u7269\u5e10\u300b(su\u00ed zh\u0113n sh\u0113n y\u012b w\u00f9 zh\u00e0ng) found at Famen Temple, at that time, among the palace women who offered clothing were Empress Dowager Hui&#8217;an (\u60e0\u5b89\u7687\u592a\u540e ; Hu\u00ec&#8217;\u0101n hu\u00e1ng t\u00e0i h\u00f2u), Zhaoyi (\u662d\u4eea ; Zh\u0101oy\u00ed), and Lady Jin (\u664b\u56fd\u592b\u4eba ; J\u00ecn gu\u00f3 f\u016b r\u00e9n).<\/p>\n<p>Empress Dowager Hui&#8217;an, Zhaoyi, and Lady Jin each had seven sets of clothing:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>For Empress Dowager Hui&#8217;an, there were five sets of red silk garments, each with five pieces, as well as three pieces of lace silk fabric covering the lower part.<\/li>\n<li>For Zhaoyi, there was one set of clothing consisting of four pieces.<\/li>\n<li>For Lady Jin, there were two sets of clothing, each with eight pieces.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>From these records, we can learn that &#8220;\u88d9\u8863\u4e00\u526f (q\u00fan y\u012b y\u012b f\u00f9, a set of clothes)&#8221; consists of &#8220;\u56db\u4e8b (s\u00ec sh\u00ec, four pieces)&#8221; or &#8220;\u4e94\u4e8b (w\u01d4 sh\u00ec, five pieces)&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>Based on the garment findings extracted from the piles at Famen Temple, a set of women&#8217;s clothing at the end of the Tang dynasty should include trousers, skirts, &#8220;Shan (\u886b ; sh\u0101n)&#8221; (which could consist of one or two pieces worn in layers), and &#8220;Pei (\u5e14 ; p\u00e8i)&#8221;, which exactly includes four or five parts.<\/p>\n<p>With these garment findings and combining them with descriptions in poetry and paintings, we can conduct a brief study of women&#8217;s fashion styles during the Late Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties period.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1396\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1396\" style=\"width: 152px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-b.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1396\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-b.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - b\" width=\"152\" height=\"518\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-b.png 152w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-b-88x300.png 88w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 152px) 100vw, 152px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1396\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the rubbing of\u300a\u968f\u771f\u8eab\u8863\u7269\u5e10\u300b(Excavated from the underground palace of Famen Temple) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a109<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h4 id=\"pishan\">Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b ; p\u012b sh\u0101n)<\/h4>\n<p>For the noblewomen of the Late Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the most popular style of top was known as \u62ab\u886b (p\u012b sh\u0101n), \u62ab\u888d (p\u012b p\u00e1o), or \u62ab\u8884\u5b50 (p\u012b \u01ceo zi).<\/p>\n<p>According to records from Famen Temple, in the\u300a\u8863\u300b(Y\u012b) collection, it is mentioned that the temple once kept &#8220;\u62ab\u8884\u5b50 (p\u012b \u01ceo zi) embroidered with gold and silver thread&#8221;, and in the 15th year of Xiantong (874), there were records of &#8220;\u62ab\u888d (p\u012b p\u00e1o) five sections with wide-shaped silk&#8221; and &#8220;\u62ab\u886b (p\u012b sh\u0101n) five sections with corn pattern&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>During that time, the poet He Ning (\u548c\u51dd ; H\u00e9 N\u00edng) described this type of clothing:<\/p>\n<p><em>\u67f3\u8272\u62ab\u886b\u91d1\u7f15\u98ce\uff0c\u7ea4\u624b\u8f7b\u62c8\u7ea2\u8c46\u5f04\uff0c \u7fe0\u86fe\u53cc\u6548\u6b63\u542b\u60c5\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u6843\u82b1\u6d1e\uff0c\u7476\u53f0\u68a6\uff0c\u4e00\u7247\u6625\u6101\u8c01\u4e0e\u5171\uff1f<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u300a\u5929\u4ed9\u5b50\u300b<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>The willow-colored clothing wrapped in golden thread,<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Delicate hands plucking red beans at play,<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Eyebrows like green leaves, her partner conveying emotions.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>The peach blossom cave, a dream of a gem palace,<\/em><br \/>\n<em>A lump of spring sorrow, who can share it?<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u300a\u5929\u4ed9\u5b50\u300b<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>\u62ab\u888d\u7387\u5730\u7ea2\u5bab\u9526\uff0c\u83ba\u8bed\u65f6\u8f6c\u8f7b\u97f3\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u78a7\u7f57\u51a0\u5b50\u7a33\u7280\u7c2a\uff0c\u51e4\u51f0\u53cc\u8d34\u6b65\u6447\u91d1\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u2014\u2014\u300a\u4e34\u6c5f\u4ed9\u300b<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>The red palace brocade sweeps the ground, with beautiful palace silk,<\/em><br \/>\n<em>The sound of turmeric birds occasionally spinning gently.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>The blue silk crown paired with a rhinoceros horn hairpin,<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Phoenixes perch on either side, with gold ornaments that move with each step.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u2014\u2014\u300a\u4e34\u6c5f\u4ed9\u300b<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>\u4e91\u884c\u98ce\u9759\u65e9\u79cb\u5929\uff0c\u7adf\u7ed5\u76c6\u6c60\u8e4b\u91c7\u83b2\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u7f68\u753b\u62ab\u888d\u4ece\u5bb0\u5730\uff0c\u66f4\u5bfb\u5bab\u67f3\u770b\u9e23\u8749\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u300a\u5bab\u8bcd\u300b<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>The clouds move, the wind is calm in the autumn morning,<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Circling the pond, stepping on the lotus flowers being plucked.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>The beautifully embroidered robe covers the ground,<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Searching for the palace willow tree, while listening to the sound of crickets.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u300a\u5bab\u8bcd\u300b<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The specific design of this clothing should be as described by Feng Jian (\u51af\u9274 ; F\u00e9ng Ji\u00e0n), a figure from the Later Shu during the Five Dynasties period, in his book \u300a\u7eed\u4e8b\u59cb\u300b(x\u00f9 sh\u00ec sh\u01d0): <em>&#8220;According to the\u300a\u5b9e\u5f55\u300b(sh\u00ed l\u00f9), Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b), its covering comes from Yu Di (\u6986\u7fdf ; y\u00fa d\u00ed). It only takes the colors red and purple without decoration or patterns, and its length is aligned with the body, with wide sleeves and a collar that does not fasten but hangs straight down in front of the chest, used as summer attire.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b) originates from Di Yi (\u7fdf\u8863 ; d\u00ed y\u012b), the formal clothing for noblewomen, which later evolved into a more casual and practical everyday wear, aside from its formal function in state ceremonies.<\/p>\n<p>The length of this garment is equal to the length of the wearer&#8217;s body, with a collar that does not overlap and only hangs straight in front of the chest, designed for comfort during the summer.<\/p>\n<p>This clothing is made from light fabric and is not adorned with intricate or luxurious patterns, thus giving an impression of simplicity and comfort.<\/p>\n<p>The Pi Ao (\u62ab\u8884) or Pi Pao (\u62ab\u888d) has a similar design to the Pi Shan but is made from embroidered silk or multicolored silk, which is heavier.<\/p>\n<p>As recorded in\u300a\u4e2d\u534e\u53e4\u4eca\u6ce8\u300b(zh\u014dng hu\u00e1 g\u01d4 j\u012bn zh\u00f9) by Ma Gao (\u9a6c\u7f1f ; M\u01ce G\u01ceo), <em>&#8220;The palace women wear Pi Ao Zi (\u62ab\u8884\u5b50), which is inherited from the Pao (\u888d)&#8230; Many are made with five-colored embroidered silk or use brocade silk, and it was only recently known by this name.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>In the clothing excavated from Famen Temple, there are two pieces of long garments with the same design, featuring wide collars and long sleeves, with the length of the garment reaching down to the feet.<\/p>\n<p>The inner garment is made from thin, lightweight fabric, sewn into a single layer, which should be the Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b), while the outer garment is made from Luo (\u7f57 ; lu\u00f3) as the surface material, with the inner part using Juan (\u7ee2 ; ju\u00e0n), which should be the Pi Pao (\u62ab\u888d).<\/p>\n<p>Both of these garments have ties sewn at the center of the neck and sleeves, shaped squarely.<\/p>\n<p>By comparing these two pieces of clothing, we can also find details not mentioned in the literature\u2014both of these long garments have long slits on the sides of the body.<\/p>\n<p>These slits were originally designed to facilitate horseback riding.<\/p>\n<p>Before the Wei and Jin, in the Zhongyuan (\u4e2d\u539f, Central Plains), people had to tuck the ends of outer garments, which did not have slits, into the waistband at the back to free the hips for riding.<\/p>\n<p>However, since the Northern Dynasties, Sui, and Tang dynasties, men more frequently wore robes with side slits, a style that originated from the clothing of the Western Regions (\u897f\u57df ; X\u012by\u00f9). The Hufu (\u80e1\u670d ; h\u00fa f\u00fa) became everyday wear to facilitate horseback riding.<\/p>\n<p>Noblewomen\u2019s everyday clothing at the end of the Tang dynasty adopted this style, but, when looking at the trends of women\u2019s fashion at the time, with long and wide dresses, the slits had long departed from their original purpose of facilitating horseback riding, transforming into purely decorative elements.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1395\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1395\" style=\"width: 811px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-c.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1395\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-c.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - c\" width=\"811\" height=\"565\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-c.png 811w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-c-300x209.png 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-c-768x535.png 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 811px) 100vw, 811px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1395\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the\u300a\u5f15\u8def\u83e9\u8428\u56fe\u300b(Unearthed from the Sutra Cave of Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a111 (taken from \uff08\u5de6\uff09\u6cd5\u56fd\u5409\u7f8e\u535a\u7269\u9986\u85cf\uff08\u53f3\uff09\u82f1\u56fd\u5927\u82f1\u535a\u7269\u9986\u85cf)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Under the influence of a luxurious lifestyle, the trend of Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b) continued to develop, so much so that in the painting\u300a\u5f15\u8def\u83e9\u8428\u56fe\u300b(y\u01d0n l\u00f9 p\u00fa s\u00e0 t\u00fa), discovered in the Dunhuang Treasury Caves, even the &#8220;devout followers\/faithful believers&#8221; offering tributes are depicted wearing Pi Shan with wide sleeves that hang long, and wide skirts that sweep the ground.<\/p>\n<p>Meanwhile, in the Central Plains, Emperor Zhuangzong of the Tang dynasty even felt the need to issue a special decree in the second year of the Tongguang era (924) to limit this: <em>&#8220;In recent years, women&#8217;s clothing has become excessively wide and extravagant, wasting too much money. Able families, regardless of status, wear silk and brocade clothing. Immediate inspections should be conducted.&#8221;<\/em> (\u300a\u65e7\u4e94\u4ee3\u53f2 . \u5510\u5e84\u5b97\u7eaa\u300bji\u00f9 w\u01d4 d\u00e0i sh\u01d0 . t\u00e1ng zhu\u0101ng z\u014dng j\u00ec).<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1394\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1394\" style=\"width: 330px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-d.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1394\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-d.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - d\" width=\"330\" height=\"542\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-d.png 330w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-d-183x300.png 183w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 330px) 100vw, 330px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1394\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the late Tang dynasty (Part of the painting series\u300a\u5357\u65e0\u836f\u5e08\u7409\u7483\u5149\u4f5b\u300b\/ Unearthed from the Fuzang Cave in Mogao, Dunhuang \/ Collected by the British Museum, UK) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a112<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1393\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1393\" style=\"width: 337px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-e.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1393\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-e.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - e\" width=\"337\" height=\"542\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-e.png 337w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-e-187x300.png 187w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 337px) 100vw, 337px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1393\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the Five Dynasties (Part of\u300a\u5f15\u8def\u83e9\u8428\u56fe\u300b\/ Unearthed from the Mogao Caves in Dunhuang \/ Collected by the British Museum) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a112<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1392\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1392\" style=\"width: 762px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-f.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1392\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-f.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - f\" width=\"762\" height=\"567\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-f.png 762w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-f-300x223.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 762px) 100vw, 762px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1392\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the Five Dynasties \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a113<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1391\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1391\" style=\"width: 686px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-g.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1391\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-g.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - g\" width=\"686\" height=\"556\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-g.png 686w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-g-300x243.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 686px) 100vw, 686px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1391\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the Five Dynasties \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a113<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1390\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1390\" style=\"width: 387px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-h.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1390\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-h.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - h\" width=\"387\" height=\"572\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-h.png 387w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-h-203x300.png 203w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 387px) 100vw, 387px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1390\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the 15th year of Xiantong reign of Emperor Tang Xizong (874) (Reconstruction of clothing unearthed from the underground palace of Famen Temple) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a114<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>15th year of the reign of Xiantong Emperor Tang Xizong (874)<\/p>\n<p>Reconstruction of costumes excavated from the underground palace of Famen Temple<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyles and makeup: Illustrated based on murals from the same period.<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: Combination of original excavated clothing<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1389\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1389\" style=\"width: 359px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-i.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1389\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-i.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - i\" width=\"359\" height=\"500\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-i.png 359w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-i-215x300.png 215w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 359px) 100vw, 359px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1389\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a115<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<ol>\n<li>Pi Pao \/ Pi Shan (\u62ab\u888d\/\u62ab\u886b): The items successfully recovered by the experts are two pieces of clothing with similar designs and sizes, joined together. With straight sleeves, a long body, and a central fastening with tie straps, the outer layer has an inner lining, which should be Pi Pao (\u62ab\u888d), while the inner layer has no lining, which should be Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b). The original color of the clothing has faded, and the colors and patterns restored here are designs made separately.<\/li>\n<li>Ku (\u88b4 ; k\u00f9): When worn, it should be inside the skirt, with straight pant legs, an open slit, and a waistband at the top.<\/li>\n<li>Silk Skirt with Silver and Clay Painting (\u94f6\u6ce5\u5f69\u7ed8\u7f57\u88d9 ; y\u00edn n\u00ed c\u01cei hu\u00ec lu\u00f3 q\u00fan): There are no slanted seams on the body of the skirt, but instead, six pieces of silk material are sewn together and then folded at the waist of the skirt. At the top, there is a string of gold and silver thread forming patterns of phoenixes and flying birds at the waist. The ties of the skirt are hung at both ends. On the skirt, silver lines are used to fill in colors and depict various patterns of butterflies, birds, and flowers as decoration. The original color of this skirt has faded, and the restored colors and patterns here are designs made separately.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h4 id=\"kedang\">Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6 ; k\u00e8 d\u0101ng)<\/h4>\n<p>Along with the trend of Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b), there is a specific style of clothing used as formal attire for women, known as Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6 ; k\u00e8 d\u0101ng).<\/p>\n<p>The name of this garment first appeared in the\u300a\u970d\u5c0f\u7389\u4f20\u300b(hu\u00f2 xi\u01ceo y\u00f9 chu\u00e1n) from a Tang dynasty legend: <em>&#8220;Suddenly, she saw behind the jeweled curtains, her face beautiful and charming, looking as usual. She wore a pomegranate-colored skirt, a purple Ke Dang (\u8864\u84cb\u88c6), and a red-green Pei. Standing sideways, her hands pulled an embroidered ribbon.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>In Dunhuang documents, many also mention Ke Dang (\u8864\u84cb\u88c6), and from the years recorded in these documents, it is known that this type of clothing became popular from the middle of the Tang dynasty to the early Song dynasty.<\/p>\n<p>Additionally, a document written in the ninth year of the Taiping Xingguo era (984), titled\u300a\u9093\u5bb6\u8d22\u793c\u76ee\u300b(d\u00e8ng ji\u0101 c\u00e1i l\u01d0 m\u00f9), which is a list of gifts sent by Yan Zhangwu (\u960e\u7ae0\u4ef5 ; Y\u00e1n Zh\u0101ngw\u01d4), the military leader of Dunhuang, to his relative named Deng (\u9093 ; D\u00e8ng), it mentions six sets of clothing given to a bride. From this, we can understand that one set of formal clothing consisted of a skirt, Ke Dang (\u8864\u84cb\u88c6) or Shan Zi (\u886b\u5b50), and Li Jin (\u793c\u5dfe ; l\u01d0 j\u012bn) or Pei Zi (\u5e14\u5b50).<\/p>\n<p><em>\u78a7\u7eeb\u88d9\u4e00\u8170\u3001\u7d2b\u7eeb\u799a\u6863\u4e00\u9886\u3001\u9ec4\u753b\u88ab\u5b50\u4e00\u6761\uff0c\u4e09\u4e8b\u5171\u4e00\u5bf9\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u7ea2\u7f57\u88d9\u4e00\u8170\u3001\u8d34\u91d1\u886b\u5b50\u4e00\u9886\u3001\u8d34\u91d1\u793c\u5dfe\u4e00\u6761\uff0c\u4e09\u4e8b\u5171\u4e00\u5bf9\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u7eff\u7eeb\u88d9\u4e00\u8170\u3001\u7ea2\u9526\u799a\u6863\u4e00\u9886\u3001\u9ec4\u753b\u88ab\u5b50\u4e00\u6761\uff0c\u4e09\u4e8b\u5171\u4e00\u5bf9\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u7d2b\u7ee3\u88d9\u4e00\u8170\u3001\u7d2b\u7ee3\u8c25\u6863\u4e00\u9886\u3001\u7d2b\u7ee3\u793c\u5dfe\u4e00\u6761\uff0c\u4e09\u4e8b\u5171\u4e00\u5bf9\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u53c8\u7ea2\u7f57\u88d9\u4e00\u8170\u3001\u7ea2\u9526\u799a\u6863\u4e00\u9886\u3001\u9ec4\u753b\u88ab\u5b50\u4e00\u6761\uff0c\u4e09\u4e8b\u5171\u4e00\u5bf9\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u53c8\u7d2b\u7ee3\u88d9\u4e00\u8170\u3001\u7ee3\u5f3a\u6863\u4e00\u9886\u3001\u7ee3\u793c\u5dfe\u4e00\u6761\uff0c\u4e09 \u4e8b\u5171\u4e00\u5bf9\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>\u53c8\u7eff\u7eeb\u88d9\u4e00\u8170\u3001\u7ea2\u9526\u798f\u6863\u4e00\u9886\u3001\u94f6\u6ce5\u793c\u5dfe\u4e00\u6761\uff0c\u4e09\u4e8b\u5171\u4e00\u5bf9\u3002<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>One blue-green silk skirt, one purple Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6), one yellow embroidered Peizi, three pieces form one set.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>One red silk skirt, one golden-layered Shan Zi (\u886b\u5b50), one golden-layered Li Jin (\u793c\u5dfe), three pieces form one set.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>One green silk skirt, one red brocade Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6), and one yellow embroidered Peizi, three pieces form one set.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>One purple embroidered skirt, one purple Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6), one purple embroidered Li Jin (\u793c\u5dfe), three pieces form one set.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Also, one red silk skirt, one red brocade Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6), and one yellow embroidered Peizi, three pieces form one set.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Also, one purple embroidered skirt, one embroidered Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6), one embroidered Li Jin (\u793c\u5dfe), three pieces form one set.<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Also, one green silk skirt, one red brocade Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6), one Li Jin with silver lines, three pieces form one set.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1388\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1388\" style=\"width: 178px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-j.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1388\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-j.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - j\" width=\"178\" height=\"573\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-j.png 178w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-j-93x300.png 93w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 178px) 100vw, 178px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1388\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the late Tang dynasty (The first year of Tianyou reign of Emperor Tang Ai (904) \/ Murals in the Tang dynasty Cui family tomb in Wangmu Village, Pingshan, Hebei) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a116<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Additionally, since Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6) is aligned with Shan (\u886b), its shape is likely similar to that of Shan.<\/p>\n<p>What is referred to as Dang (\u88c6 ; d\u0101ng) refers to the inner garment that covers the chest and back, namely Liang Dang (\u88f2\u88c6 ; li\u01ceng d\u0101ng); the name Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6) is likely derived from its function of covering the front of the clothing, outside the main layer of garments.<\/p>\n<p>From the clothing found in the underground palace of Famen Temple, there is a type of upper garment that is different from the long Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b) and also different from the short Shan (\u886b) typically worn by the Tang people in daily life.<\/p>\n<p>This garment has a straight design with sleeves aligned with the body, and the length of the front and back is almost the same, just enough to cover the inner clothing. When worn, sometimes the collar is left open with folds in the front, or it could be folded and the sleeve portions pulled into the waist of the skirt. This is very likely the type of Ke Dang (\u8864\u76d6\u88c6) used at that time.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1387\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1387\" style=\"width: 781px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-k.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1387\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-k.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - k\" width=\"781\" height=\"423\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-k.png 781w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-k-300x162.png 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-k-768x416.png 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 781px) 100vw, 781px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1387\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the late Tang dynasty (About the Xiantong period of Emperor Tang Yizong, Female figurines from the Tang tomb in Zaoyuan, western suburbs of Xi&#8217;an) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a117<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1386\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1386\" style=\"width: 406px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-l.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1386\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-l.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - l\" width=\"406\" height=\"570\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-l.png 406w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-l-214x300.png 214w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 406px) 100vw, 406px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1386\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restoration of the costumes unearthed from the underground palace of Famen Temple in the 15th year of Emperor Tang Xizong (874) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a118<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Restoration of costumes excavated from the underground palace of Famen Temple in the 15th year of the reign of Xiantong Emperor Tang Xizong (874)<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyle and makeup: Referring to the figure statues from the same period.<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: Based on the combination of clothing found.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1385\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1385\" style=\"width: 416px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-m.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1385\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-m.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - m\" width=\"416\" height=\"578\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-m.png 416w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-m-216x300.png 216w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 416px) 100vw, 416px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1385\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a119<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<ol>\n<li>Wide-Sleeved Top: The body length of the garment is almost aligned with the length of the sleeves. The collar portion of this garment has been damaged, so its exact shape cannot be determined. Currently, its form is estimated based on wall paintings from the same period. The original color of this garment has faded, and the restored colors and patterns here are a redesign.<\/li>\n<li>Ku\/Trousers (\u88b4 ; k\u00f9): It is assumed that these trousers have the same shape as those previously mentioned, still featuring an open design with straight legs.<\/li>\n<li>Long Skirt with Gold and Silver Embroidery, with Butterfly and Bird Motifs: The silk fabric was cut into twenty-four long pieces, narrow at the top and widening at the bottom, then sewn together to form the skirt. On this skirt, a silver clay lining technique was used, filled with colors, and decorated with various butterfly and bird patterns. At the top of the skirt, there are patterns of clouds and a Qilin (a mythical creature) made of gold and silver threads. Two additional ties are sewn on the sides of the waist of the skirt. The original color of this skirt has faded, and the restored colors and patterns here are a redesign.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h4 id=\"kuchangqun\">Ku\/Trousers (\u88b4 ; k\u00f9) and Long Skirt<\/h4>\n<p>As part of the upper garment, during the late Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties, women&#8217;s lower garments consisted of trousers and long skirts.<\/p>\n<p>From\u300a\u82b1\u95f4\u96c6\u300b, we can see that at that time, women wore trousers underneath and covered the outer layer with a long skirt, creating a layered clothing style.<\/p>\n<p>Ku (\u88b4), also written as Ku (\u7ed4 ; k\u00f9), has a design similar to the two pairs of trousers found in the clothing bundle from Famen Temple.<\/p>\n<p>The top is open, while the bottom features two large holes in the trousers. This is a style of southern trousers, which gradually replaced the small-mouthed trousers worn in the Hufu (\u80e1\u670d) fashion (from the north), popular in the early Tang dynasty after the An Lushan Rebellion. These southern-style trousers eventually became the dominant style for women&#8217;s inner trousers.<\/p>\n<p>In the late Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties, women&#8217;s clothing generally consisted of wide, pleated, and long skirts.<\/p>\n<p>One sentence in Hua Jian (\u82b1\u95f4 ; Hu\u0101 Ji\u0101n) that accurately describes this is: <em>&#8220;The six-layered silk skirt sweeps the ground, moving slowly with the blue waves.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The clothing found in Famen Temple shows two different types of long skirts.<\/p>\n<p>One of them has no diagonal seams, only combining six pieces of silk fabric in a straight position, then folded into twelve straight pleats along the body of the skirt. At the waist, there is a decoration featuring patterns of flying birds and wind, woven with gold and silver threads. The other skirt is cut into twenty-four pieces of fabric, narrower at the top and widening at the bottom, then sewn together. At the waist, there is a decoration adorned with cloud and Qilin patterns woven with gold and silver threads. An additional belt is sewn on the left and right sides of the waist of the skirt. After the skirt is sewn, the top part of the skirt is decorated with butterfly, bird, and flower patterns drawn with silver clay and painted with color.<\/p>\n<p>Although the original color of the skirt has faded with age, many references to the colors of women&#8217;s skirts can be found in\u300a\u82b1\u95f4\u96c6\u300b, which helps us imagine them.<\/p>\n<p>Some references to the color of these skirts include:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;Remember the green silk skirt, loved everywhere by the grass and flowers,&#8221;<\/em><br \/>\n<em>&#8220;Small fish-holding jade on their heads, the pomegranate skirt dipped in light silk,&#8221;<\/em><br \/>\n<em>&#8220;Yet prefer the blue silk skirt, which makes the slim waist appear more beautiful.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Because of the double-collar design of Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b), women might have exposed a tube top (\u62b9\u80f8 ; m\u00f2 xi\u014dng), which they commonly used as innerwear. However, visible undergarments were eventually considered improper.<\/p>\n<p>Therefore, women in the Tang dynasty began to add wide decorative panels at the waist of their long skirts. During the Five Dynasties, this style became a strong trend. These decorative panels often used the same colors and patterns as the body of the skirt, shaped in curved arches.<\/p>\n<p>As seen in the painting\u300a\u7c2a\u82b1\u4ed5\u5973\u56fe\u300b(z\u0101n hu\u0101 sh\u00ec n\u01da t\u00fa), the second person from the right, some were even made more intricate with flower-petal shapes, as seen on the servant&#8217;s waist in the tomb mural of Wang Chuzhi (\u738b\u5904\u76f4 ; W\u00e1ng Ch\u00f9zh\u00ed) in the second year of the Tongguang era, Five Dynasties, Late Tang (924).<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1384\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1384\" style=\"width: 302px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-n.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1384\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-n.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - n\" width=\"302\" height=\"509\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-n.png 302w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-n-178x300.png 178w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 302px) 100vw, 302px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1384\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the Five Dynasties (The second year of Tongguang in the Later Tang dynasty (924) \/ Murals in Wang Chuzhi&#8217;s tomb) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a121 (taken from \u6cb3\u5317\u7701\u6587\u7269\u7814\u7a76\u6240\uff0c\u4fdd\u5b9a\u5e02\u6587\u7269\u7ba1\u7406\u5904\uff0c\u4e94 \u4ee3\u738b\u5904\u76f4\u5893[M]. \u5317\u4eac\uff1a\u6587\u7269\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c1998.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1383\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1383\" style=\"width: 311px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-o.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1383\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-o.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - o\" width=\"311\" height=\"505\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-o.png 311w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-o-185x300.png 185w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 311px) 100vw, 311px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1383\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anonymous painting of\u300a\u7c2a\u82b1\u4ed5\u5973\u56fe\u300b(Collection of Liaoning Provincial Museum) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a121<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h4 id=\"huachanqunhuabixi\">Hua Chanqun (\u82b1\u895c\u88d9 ; hu\u0101 ch\u0101n q\u00fan) (Knee-Covering Skirt (\u82b1\u853d\u819d ; hu\u0101 b\u00ec x\u012b))<\/h4>\n<p>Between skirts and pants, women at the end of the Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties had a special layer of clothing, called the \u201cChanqun (\u895c\u88d9 ch\u0101n q\u00fan)&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps because at that time, when women rode horses outside, the undergarments visible from their pants were considered inappropriate, so an outer garment was added to cover the front of the body.<\/p>\n<p>In Bai Juyi&#8217;s poem\u300a\u540c\u8bf7\u5ba2\u5632\u96ea\u4e2d\u9a6c\u4e0a\u5993\u300b(t\u00f3ng q\u01d0ng k\u00e8 ch\u00e1o xu\u011b zh\u014dng m\u01ce sh\u00e0ng j\u00ec), there is a line: <em>&#8220;Stable silver ornaments and black hat, flower petals fit for riding a horse.&#8221;<\/em> This clearly explains it.<\/p>\n<p>The Chanqun \u895c\u88d9, also known as \u853d\u819d (b\u00ec x\u012b, knee cover), is described in Han Bao&#8217;s (\u97e9\u4fdd ; H\u00e1n B\u01ceo) poem as: &#8220;<em>The fragrance of flowers touches the knees on a cold night, hearing the rain makes the spring dream unrealized.&#8221;<\/em> (\u300a\u95fb\u96e8\u300bw\u00e9n y\u01d4), &#8220;<em>The distant night surely avoids the fragrance hidden at the knees, when asked the time, she shakes her head with jade.&#8221;<\/em> (\u300a\u9752\u6625\u300bq\u012bng ch\u016bn)<\/p>\n<p>These poems also indicate that this garment originally came from the brothel at Pingkang (\u5e73\u5eb7\u5993\u9986 ; p\u00edng k\u0101ng j\u00ec gu\u01cen), while noblewomen traveling by carriage did not need to wear it, which is why this garment was not found in the clothing records discovered at the Famen Temple.<\/p>\n<p>Since the end of the Tang dynasty, frequent wars caused women to travel more often, and thus the Chanqun \u895c\u88d9 became very popular.<\/p>\n<p>As found in the tomb of King Zhao Tingyin (\u8d75\u5ef7\u9690 ; Zh\u00e0o T\u00edngy\u01d0n) of Later Shu, where more than twenty ceramic figurines depicting musical servants and singers were discovered, although the outer skirt worn had an open pant style at the side of the body, showing the inner pants, there was nothing at the front between the pants and the skirt that did not show an angle or flower shape of Bi Xi (\u853d\u819d, knee cover).<\/p>\n<p>Additionally, it is worth noting that the compiler of\u300a\u82b1\u95f4\u96c6\u300bwas Zhao Chongzuo (\u8d75\u5d07\u795a ; Zh\u00e0o Ch\u00f3ngzu\u00f2), the eldest son of Zhao Tingyin.<\/p>\n<p>This style spread to the imperial court, resulting in more luxurious styles.<\/p>\n<p>Around the time of the Five Dynasties, during the Southern Tang period, in the painting\u300a\u7c2a\u82b1\u4ed5\u5973\u56fe\u300b, the fashion of the imperial women is displayed.<\/p>\n<p>At the beginning of the painting, a woman holding a fan in her left hand is playing with a puppy, while her right hand moves the red skirt she is wearing, perfectly revealing the flowing trousers and ceremonial skirt adorned with flower paintings.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1382\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1382\" style=\"width: 286px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-p.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1382\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-p.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - p\" width=\"286\" height=\"568\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-p.png 286w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-p-151x300.png 151w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 286px) 100vw, 286px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1382\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the Five Dynasties (Female figurines unearthed from the tomb of Zhao Tingyin of the Later Shu \/ Collection of Chengdu Museum) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a122<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Since the end of the Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the Chanqun (\u895c\u88d9) remained popular in regions under the rule of the Liao and Jin dynasties.<\/p>\n<p>This garment was found in a Liao tomb in Mount Tuerqi, Inner Mongolia, where the body of the skirt was made from three pieces of fabric that formed the lower part of the skirt, with three flower-shaped pieces. At the top, there was embroidery using gold and silver threads, depicting windflower motifs.<\/p>\n<p>When discovered, the skirt was worn under six outer garments with a left-side closure (\u5de6\u887d ; zu\u01d2 r\u00e8n) and over a skirt made of four layers of silk fabric.<\/p>\n<p>The tent-style skirts worn outside also appear in wall paintings depicting servants in the Feng Hui (\u51af\u6656 ; F\u00e9ng Hu\u012b) tomb from the Later Zhou fifth year of the Xiande era, as well as in paintings of servants on the wooden coffins in a Liao tomb in You&#8217;ai Village, Sumu, Barin Right Banner, Inner Mongolia (\u5185\u8499\u53e4\u5df4\u6797\u53f3\u65d7\u90fd\u5e0c\u82cf\u6728\u53cb\u7231\u6751).<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1381\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1381\" style=\"width: 700px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-q.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1381\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-q.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - q\" width=\"700\" height=\"410\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-q.png 700w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-q-300x176.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1381\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hua Chanqun \u82b1\u895c\u88d9 (Unearthed from Liao tombs at Turqi Mountain, Inner Mongolia) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a123<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>However, in the Central Plains, the fashionable skirt style gradually disappeared during the Song dynasty.<\/p>\n<p>Initially, in the city of Bianjing, prostitutes refused to wear wide trousers and tent skirts and instead created skirts that could be opened at the front and back to make it easier to ride donkeys.<\/p>\n<p>Later, many women in noble families began to imitate this style. Although officials of the time, such as Sima Guang, considered it to be &#8220;barbarian customs&#8221; and &#8220;shameless,&#8221; they were ultimately unable to change this fashion trend.<\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_1380\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1380\" style=\"width: 217px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-r.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1380\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-r.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - r\" width=\"217\" height=\"521\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-r.png 217w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-r-125x300.png 125w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 217px) 100vw, 217px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1380\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the Five Dynasties (The fifth year of Xiande in the Later Zhou (958) \/ Feng Hui\u2019s tomb mural) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a124 (taken from \u54b8\u9633\u5e02\u6587\u7269\u8003\u53e4\u7814\u7a76\u6240\uff0c\u4e94\u4ee3\u51af\u6656\u5893[M] . \u91cd\u5e86\uff1a\u91cd\u5e86\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2001\uff1a48.)<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure id=\"attachment_1379\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1379\" style=\"width: 267px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-s.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1379\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-s.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - s\" width=\"267\" height=\"524\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-s.png 267w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-s-153x300.png 153w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 267px) 100vw, 267px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1379\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the Liao dynasty (\u5185\u8499\u53e4\u5df4\u6797\u53f3\u65d7\u90fd\u5e0c\u82cf\u6728\u53cb\u7231\u6751 \/ Painted wooden coffins of Liao tombs) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a124 (taken from \u4e5d\u5dde\u56fd\u7acb\u535a\u7269\u9986 . \u8349\u539f\u7684\u738b\u671d . \u5951\u4e39 . \u4e09\u4f4d\u7f8e\u4e3d\u7684\u516c\u4e3b[M] . \u4e5d\u5dde\uff1a\u897f\u65e5\u672c\u65b0\u95fb\u793e\uff0c2011.)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1378\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1378\" style=\"width: 404px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-t.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1378\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-t.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Late Tang Dynasty \u665a\u5510 &amp; Five Dynasties) - t\" width=\"404\" height=\"573\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-t.png 404w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Late-Tang-Dynasty-\u665a\u5510-Five-Dynasties-t-212x300.png 212w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 404px) 100vw, 404px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1378\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Women in the Southern Tang during the Five Dynasties (Drawn with reference to\u300a\u7c2a\u82b1\u4ed5\u5973\u56fe\u300b) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a125<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Women&#8217;s Makeup in the Five Dynasties of the Southern Tang<\/p>\n<p>References from the painting\u300a\u7c2a\u82b1\u4ed5\u5973\u56fe\u300b<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyle and makeup: Hair in a high bun, sideburns, hairpins with hibiscus flowers, and faces painted with Beiyuan (\u5317\u82d1\u5986 ; b\u011bi yu\u00e0n zhu\u0101ng) makeup.<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: Women wear an outer garment of Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b, a wide-sleeved garment made of silk) and a long skirt, with an inner layer of \u793c\u88d9 (l\u01d0 q\u00fan, a traditional ritual skirt) Wearing a long-sleeved Pi Shan (\u62ab\u886b) and a long skirt (lined with Chanqun \u895c\u88d9)<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h4>And there you have it\u2014<\/h4>\n<p>It\u2019s hard to believe, but we\u2019ve already completed 5 journeys on Qi Luo \u7eee\u7f57 (Clothing)! Next, we\u2019ll move on to the next chapter, Lin Lang \u7433\u7405 (Accessories). Stay tuned!<\/p>\n<p>I hope these notes have been insightful and encourage you to dive deeper into the world of traditional Chinese clothing, particularly from the Tang dynasty. If you come across any incorrect word \/ translation, or you have suggestions for improvement, please don\u2019t hesitate to reach out to me via <a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/contact\">email<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Thank you for taking the time to read, and I\u2019ll continue to update these notes as we move on to the next part. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/category\/zhang-ruyings-notes\">#ZhangRuying\u2019sNotes<\/a><\/p>\n<p>See you in the next notes. And thank you \u8c22\u8c22!<\/p>\n<p>\u5f20\u5112\u82f1 Zhang Ruying<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Table of Contents Introduction About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b Late Tang Dynasty (\u665a\u5510) and Five Dynasties: Recalling The Past After Meeting Among Flowers Pi&#46;&#46;&#46;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":38,"featured_media":1400,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,1006],"tags":[1001,67,1026,1025,1023,1024,1027,1022,619,85,86,122,73,1000,1004,1005],"class_list":["post-1377","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-traditional-chinese-fashion","category-zhang-ruyings-notes","tag-1001","tag-five-dynasties-and-ten-kingdoms-makeup","tag-hua-bi-xi","tag-hua-chan-qun","tag-ke-dang","tag-ku","tag-late-tang-dynasty","tag-pi-shan","tag-tang-dynasty","tag-tang-dynasty-hairstyle","tag-tang-dynasty-hanfu","tag-tang-dynasty-headwear","tag-tang-dynasty-makeup","tag-zhang-ruyings-notes","tag-1004","tag-1005"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1377","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/38"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1377"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1377\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1400"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1377"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1377"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1377"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}