{"id":1342,"date":"2025-01-11T01:11:32","date_gmt":"2025-01-10T17:11:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/?p=1342"},"modified":"2025-07-12T10:49:15","modified_gmt":"2025-07-12T02:49:15","slug":"zhang-ruyings-notes-from%e3%80%8a%e4%b8%ad%e5%9b%bd%e5%a6%86%e6%9d%9f%ef%bc%9a%e5%a4%a7%e5%94%90%e5%a5%b3%e5%84%bf%e8%a1%8c%e3%80%8bclothing-middle-tang-dynasty","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/1342","title":{"rendered":"Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1374\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - 1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1-200x200.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4>Table of Contents<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"#intro\">Introduction<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#about\">About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#midtang\">Middle Tang Dynasty: Clothing Changes To A New Style In Yuanhe<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#daizongdali\">Emperor Tang Daizong, Dali Period (757\u2013779)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#dezongzhenyuan\">Emperor Tang Dezong, Zhenyuan Period (785\u2013805)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#xianzongyuanhe\">Emperor Tang Xianzong, Yuanhe Period (806\u2013820)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#muzongchangqing\">Emperor Tang Muzong, Changqing period (821-824)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#wenzongtaihe\">Emperor Tang Wenzong, Taihe Period (827-835)<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h4 id=\"intro\">Introduction<\/h4>\n<p>Hello, I\u2019d like to reintroduce myself,<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019m \u5f20\u5112\u82f1 Zhang Ruying, and I am a traditional Chinese clothing enthusiast. Recently, I had the opportunity to read a book about traditional Chinese attire, especially for the Tang dynasty (618-907), written in Chinese, titled\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bby \u5de6\u4e18\u840c and \u672b\u6625. I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book, and to better understand parts of it, I translated sections that I found challenging. I also made notes (written in English) along the way to help deepen my understanding.<\/p>\n<p>And I\u2019m excited to share these notes with you! I hope they help deepen our understanding of traditional Chinese clothing, which is so rich in history and beauty.<\/p>\n<p>All the information in these notes comes from the book \u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b.<\/p>\n<p>This is for non-commercial purposes only. All rights remain with the original copyright holders.<\/p>\n<h4 id=\"about\">About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/tag\/%e3%80%8a%e4%b8%ad%e5%9b%bd%e5%a6%86%e6%9d%9f%ef%bc%9a%e5%a4%a7%e5%94%90%e5%a5%b3%e5%84%bf%e8%a1%8c%e3%80%8b\">\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b<\/a>(Zh\u014dng Gu\u00f3 Zhu\u0101ng Sh\u00f9: D\u00e0 T\u00e1ng N\u01da\u2019\u00e9r X\u00edng) by \u5de6\u4e18\u840c (Zu\u01d2 Qi\u016bm\u00e9ng) and \u672b\u6625 (M\u00f2 Ch\u016bn) attempts to reinterpret the true fashion of women\u2019s makeup and attire during the Tang dynasty, based on archaeological findings of Tang artifacts.<\/p>\n<p>It contrasts these findings with historical records and unearthed documents to reframe how the Tang people themselves might have viewed fashion in their time.<\/p>\n<p>The book covers from the Sui dynasty to the Five Dynasties, and is divided into four sections: Qi Luo \u7eee\u7f57 (clothing), Lin Lang \u7433\u7405 (accessories), Fen Dai \u7c89\u9edb (makeup), and Ji Huan \u9afb\u9b1f (hairstyles).<\/p>\n<p>Each section carefully examines and details the names, styles, and combinations of different makeup and attire from that period.<\/p>\n<p>The book selects well-known historical figures, such as Yang Guifei, Wu Zetian, Shangguan Wan\u2019er, Nie Yinniang, Princess Tongchang, and others, based on existing archaeological findings, makes informed speculations to restore the possible makeup and attire of these figures. The book reconstructs their clothing, accessories, hairstyles, makeup, and scenes, all supported by historical sources.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>It\u2019s unbelievable that we\u2019re already on the 4th journey. Let\u2019s move forward!<\/p>\n<p>(<a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/category\/zhang-ruyings-notes\">#ZhangRuying\u2019sNotes<\/a> for the previous notes)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1374\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - 1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-1-200x200.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4 id=\"midtang\">\u4e2d\u5510\uff1a\u8863\u5230\u5143\u548c\u4f53\u53d8\u65b0<\/h4>\n<p>Middle Tang Dynasty: Clothing Changes To A New Style In Yuanhe<\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_1370\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1370\" style=\"width: 425px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-a.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1370\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-a.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - a\" width=\"425\" height=\"422\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-a.png 425w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-a-300x298.png 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-a-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-a-200x200.png 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 425px) 100vw, 425px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1370\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the early middle Tang dynasty (The ninth year of Dali reign of Emperor Tang Daizong (774), Murals in the tomb of Lady Bei) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a80 (taken from \u9655\u897f\u7701\u8003\u53e4\u7814\u7a76\u9662,\u58c1\u4e0a\u4e39\u9752:\u9655\u897f\u51fa\u571f\u58c1\u753b\u96c6[M].\u5317 \u4eac:\u79d1\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2009\uff1a381.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>After the Anshi Rebellion, the Tang dynasty&#8217;s national power was severely damaged and its prosperity declined.<\/p>\n<p>Internally, there was a fragmentation of power by local rulers, domination by eunuchs, and frequent uprisings by both the common people and the military.<\/p>\n<p>Due to the growing anti-Hu sentiment among the Tang people, society gradually became more conservative. Women&#8217;s makeup and fashion styles slowly shifted from bold and spirited, with the narrow and tight &#8220;Northern&#8221; or &#8220;Hu&#8221; style, to a more graceful, loose, and elegant style influenced by the &#8220;Southern&#8221; or &#8220;Han&#8221; style.<\/p>\n<p><em>\u5927\u62b5\u5929\u5b9d\u4e4b\u98ce\u5c1a\u515a\uff0c\u5927\u5386\u4e4b\u98ce\u5c1a\u6d6e\uff0c\u8d1e\u5143\u4e4b\u98ce\u5c1a\u8361\uff0c\u5143\u548c\u4e4b\u98ce\u5c1a\u602a\u4e5f\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>Most of the time, Tianbao fashion was festive, Dali fashion was frivolous, Zhenyuan fashion was turbulent, and Yuanhe fashion was strange.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>This is how Li Zhao (\u674e\u8087 ; L\u01d0 Zh\u00e0o), a contemporary of the time, described the literary circle of the past dynasties since the prosperous Tang dynasty, using it to illustrate the evolution of women&#8217;s makeup styles.<\/p>\n<p>After decades of war turmoil, finally, since the late Zhenyuan period during Emperor Tang Dezong, women&#8217;s fashion began to develop with extremely luxurious colors and styles, even more prominent than the glory days of the Tang dynasty itself.<\/p>\n<p>During this period, women&#8217;s fashion trends could be described using the term &#8220;Yuanhe style&#8221;, referring to the era when many famous poets emerged, and Tang poetry reached its peak of glory.<\/p>\n<p>However, this style was not limited to the reign of Emperor Xianzong during the Yuanhe period; it began as early as the late Zhenyuan period during Emperor Dezong&#8217;s reign, continued through the Yuanhe period under Emperor Xianzong, and lasted into the Changqing period of Emperor Muzong, spanning several decades. The Yuanhe period under Emperor Xianzong was considered the peak of this trend.<\/p>\n<p>The strange &#8220;Yuanhe style&#8221; that is regarded as unique in literary history has been extensively studied, but because of the earlier opulence of the Tang dynasty&#8217;s glory, it is often overlooked by fashion historians. In reality, women who embraced the Yuanhe style, seeking something new, were not trapped in the captivating image of the Tang dynasty&#8217;s golden age but instead created various new fashion and makeup styles.<\/p>\n<h4 id=\"daizongdali\">Emperor Tang Daizong, Dali Period (757\u2013779)<\/h4>\n<p>In the first few decades of the mid-Tang dynasty, changes in women&#8217;s fashion were still not very pronounced. However, the tradition of Southern luxury and elegance began to quietly re-emerge during the reign of Emperor Daizong.<\/p>\n<p>Fashion began to change in its details: since the peak of the Tang dynasty during the Tianbao era, women began to lengthen their side hair by tidying it up at the sides of the head and tying it up, creating various hairstyles. This practice became more extravagant during the mid-Tang period, with side hair extending and curving along the face, while makeup incorporated realistic floral and plant motifs, replacing abstract patterns.<\/p>\n<p>Through archaeological findings, although images and statues from this period are more widely scattered, based on these materials, it is estimated that some of the surviving Tang paintings of women (or their original versions) date back to this period.<\/p>\n<p>These include the painting \u300a\u6363\u7ec3\u56fe\u300b(d\u01ceo li\u00e0n t\u00fa) said to be by the painter Zhang Xuan (\u5f20\u8431 ; Zh\u0101ng Xu\u0101n), who was active during the Tang dynasty\u2019s glory years of Kaiyuan and Tianbao, as well as the painting \u300a\u5185\u4eba\u53cc\u9646\u56fe\u300b(n\u00e8i r\u00e9n shu\u0101ng l\u00f9 t\u00fa) by the artist Zhou Fang (\u5468\u6609 ; Zh\u014du F\u01ceng), who was active during the mid-Tang period under Emperors Daizong and Dezong (762\u2013805).<\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_1369\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1369\" style=\"width: 283px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-b.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1369\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-b.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - b\" width=\"283\" height=\"531\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-b.png 283w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-b-160x300.png 160w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 283px) 100vw, 283px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1369\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the early middle Tang dynasty (The first year of Xingyuan reign of Emperor Tang Dezong Xingyuan reign (784), Murals from the tomb of Princess An of Tang) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a81 (taken from \u9655\u897f\u5386\u53f2\u535a\u7269\u9986\uff0c\u5510\u5893\u58c1\u753b\u73cd\u54c1 [M]. \u897f\u5b89\uff1a\u4e09\u79e6\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2011\uff1a89.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>These paintings have been passed down for over a thousand years or copied by later generations, so there is still much doubt. However, the hairstyles of women found on statues in tombs from various periods provide important clues that help establish the dating of these famous paintings.<\/p>\n<p>One well-known example is the &#8220;side&#8221; hairstyle (\u504f\u68b3\u9aee\u5b50 ; pi\u0101n sh\u016b f\u00e0 z\u01d0), which is said to have been created by Yang Guifei. This style became a trend during the Tianbao period, featuring voluminous and lifted side hair, while the back hair was rolled up at the neck. After the Anshi Rebellion, this style evolved, with the side hair taking on a more prominent sheet-like appearance, and the back hair neatly styled and combined with a tighter form.<\/p>\n<p>At that time, women&#8217;s fashion also differed from the trends at the end of the Tianbao period, which were famous for &#8220;small shoes and narrow clothes (\u5c0f\u5934\u978b\u5c65\u7a84\u8863\u88f3 ; xi\u01ceo t\u00f3u xi\u00e9 l\u01da zh\u01cei y\u012b shang)&#8221;, and began to show a tendency toward looser styles.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1368\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1368\" style=\"width: 497px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-c.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1368\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-c.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - c\" width=\"497\" height=\"541\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-c.png 497w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-c-276x300.png 276w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 497px) 100vw, 497px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1368\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the early middle Tang dynasty \/ Female figurines in the Xi&#8217;an Museum \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a82<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1367\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1367\" style=\"width: 456px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-d.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1367\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-d.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - d\" width=\"456\" height=\"700\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-d.png 456w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-d-195x300.png 195w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 456px) 100vw, 456px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1367\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Women\u2019s makeup during the Dali period of Emperor Tang Daizong \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a83<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Women\u2019s Fashion and Makeup During the Reign of Emperor Tang Daizong (Dali Period)<\/p>\n<p>Based on a combination of clay sculpture images from the same period:<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyle and makeup: Feng-style combed hair (\u5934\u68b3\u8702 ; t\u00f3u sh\u016b f\u0113ng), hairstyle with raised slanting sides at the hips (\u504f\u68b3\u81c0 ; pi\u0101n sh\u016b t\u00fan)<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: The upper part wears a pink garment or sash (similar to a shawl), with a green lower skirt, and the shoulders are covered with a folded, yellowish-red floral patterned Peizi.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1366\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1366\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-e.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1366\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-e.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - e\" width=\"500\" height=\"445\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-e.png 500w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-e-300x267.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1366\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in the early middle Tang dynasty (Silk paintings unearthed from the Sutra Cave of Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang \/ British Museum, UK) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a84<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1365\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1365\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-f.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1365\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-f.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - f\" width=\"1200\" height=\"269\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-f.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-f-300x67.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-f-1024x230.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-f-768x172.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1365\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zhang Xuan,\u300a\u6363\u7ec3\u56fe\u300b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1364\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1364\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-g.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1364\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-g.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - g\" width=\"1200\" height=\"538\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-g.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-g-300x135.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-g-1024x459.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-g-768x344.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1364\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zhou Fang,\u300a\u5185\u4eba\u53cc\u9646\u56fe\u300b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h4 id=\"dezongzhenyuan\">Emperor Tang Dezong, Zhenyuan Period (785\u2013805)<\/h4>\n<p>Since the mid-Tang period under Emperor Daizong, women&#8217;s hairstyles began to grow increasingly complex. One notable style involved creating buns (or knots) arranged in clusters atop the head, and the clothing worn also became wider and looser. In an epitaph written by Shen Yazhi (\u6c88\u4e9a\u4e4b ; Sh\u011bn Y\u00e0zh\u012b) for his concubine, Lu Jinlan (\u5362\u91d1\u5170 ; L\u00fa J\u012bnl\u00e1n), there is a description of Lu Jinlan&#8217;s appearance when she studied dance in Chang&#8217;an during the Zhenyuan period:<\/p>\n<p><em>\u5c81\u4f59\uff0c\u4e3a\u300a\u7eff\u8170\u300b\u300a\u7389\u6811\u300b\u4e4b\u821e\uff0c\u6545\u8863\u5236\u5927\u5feb\u957f\u636e\uff0c\u4f5c\u65b0\u7709\u6167\u5678\uff0c\u9876\u9b13\u4e3a\u5a25\u4e1b\u5c0f\u9b1f\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>&#8220;After a year, she danced the Luyao and Yushu dances, and the clothes she wore were large with long sleeves, along with a new, very thick eyebrow makeup. Her side hair was styled into several small clusters.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>She created an outfit with wide sleeves and a long skirt, with eyebrows drawn in a manner resembling sadness or tears, and her side hair was arranged into several small knots.<\/p>\n<p>Meanwhile, in the poem\u300a\u68a6\u6e38\u6625\u4e03\u5341\u97f5\u300b(m\u00e8ng y\u00f3u ch\u016bn q\u012b sh\u00ed y\u00f9n) by Yuan Zhen (\u5143\u7a39 ; Yu\u00e1n Zh\u011bn), which reminisces about his lover, Cui Shuangwen (\u5d14\u53cc\u6587 ; Cu\u012b Shu\u0101ngw\u00e9n), he describes:<\/p>\n<p><em>\u4e1b\u68b3\u767e\u53f6\u9afb(\u65f6\u52bf\u5934)\uff0c\u91d1\u8e59\u91cd\u53f0\u66b4(\u8e0f\u6bbf\u6837)\u3002\u7eb0\u8f6f\u94bf\u5934\u88d9(\u745f\u745f\u8272)\uff0c\u73b2\u73d1\u5408\u6b22\u6905(\u5939\u7f2c\u540d)\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>&#8220;The hair was styled into a bun (resembling tightly packed leaves) fashionably, adorned with heavy gold ornaments that appeared magnificent. She wore a dress with a soft, bluish-green fabric for both the bodice and the skirt, creating an impression of delicacy and elegance.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_1363\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1363\" style=\"width: 651px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-h.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1363\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-h.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - h\" width=\"651\" height=\"447\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-h.png 651w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-h-300x206.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 651px) 100vw, 651px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1363\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Portrait of a female donor in the middle Tang dynasty (Murals in Cave 468 of Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a86 (taken from \u4e2d\u56fd\u6566\u714c\u58c1\u753b\u5168\u96c6\u7f16\u8f91\u59d4\u5458\u4f1a \u00b7 \u4e2d\u56fd\u6566\u714c\u58c1\u753b\u5168\u96c6 \u00b7 7 \u00b7 \u4e2d\u5510\u5377[M]. \u5929\u6d25\uff1a\u5929\u6d25\u4eba\u6c11\u7f8e\u672f\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2006\uff1a165.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>During the late reign of Emperor Dezong in the Zhenyuan period, women&#8217;s hairstyles and makeup became increasingly elaborate and complex. Hair began to be adorned with many small combs inserted in layered arrangements. As described in the poem\u300a\u5bab\u8bcd\u300b(g\u014dng c\u00ed) by Wang Jian (\u738b\u5efa ; W\u00e1ng Ji\u00e0n):<\/p>\n<p><em>\u7389\u8749\u91d1\u96c0\u4e09\u5c42\u63d2\uff0c\u7fe0\u9afb\u9ad8\u4e1b\u7eff\u9b13\u865a\u3002\u821e\u5904\u6625\u98ce\u5439\u843d\u5730\uff0c\u5f52\u6765\u522b\u8d50\u4e00\u5934\u68b3\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>&#8220;Jade crickets and golden birds were inserted in three layers, A tall green bun clustered together, with green at the temples. As she danced, the spring wind blew them to the ground, And once again, a comb was gifted to her head.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>At the end of Emperor Dezong&#8217;s reign during the Zhenyuan period, a new fashion style began to gain popularity in the city of Chang&#8217;an: the &#8220;fallen horse bun (\u5815\u9a6c\u9afb ; du\u00f2 m\u01ce j\u00ec)&#8221; and &#8220;crying eyebrow makeup (\u557c\u7709\u5986 ; t\u00ed m\u00e9i zhu\u0101ng)&#8221;. Women wore light makeup with a bright powder on their faces, their eyebrows drawn thin and curved in an eight-like shape, mimicking the expression of a pout or as if about to cry. The hairstyle, once styled in a round bun on top of the head, now became looser and more natural, with hair flowing freely and falling softly.<\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_1362\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1362\" style=\"width: 621px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-i.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1362\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-i.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - i\" width=\"621\" height=\"426\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-i.png 621w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-i-300x206.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 621px) 100vw, 621px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1362\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Portrait of a female donor in the middle Tang dynasty (Murals in Cave 159 of Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a87 (taken from \u4e2d\u56fd\u6566\u714c\u58c1\u753b\u5168\u96c6\u7f16\u8f91\u59d4\u5458\u4f1a \u00b7 \u4e2d\u56fd\u6566\u714c\u58c1\u753b\u5168\u96c6 \u00b7 7 \u00b7 \u4e2d\u5510\u5377[M]. \u5929\u6d25\uff1a\u5929\u6d25\u4eba\u6c11\u7f8e\u672f\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2006\uff1a113.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>In the surviving Tang paintings of women, such as\u300a\u6325\u6247\u4ed5\u5973\u56fe\u300b(hu\u012b sh\u00e0n sh\u00ec n\u01da t\u00fa) and\u300a\u8c03\u7434\u5438\u8317\u56fe\u300b(di\u00e0o q\u00edn x\u012b m\u00edng t\u00fa), which are attributed to Zhou Fang (\u5468\u6609), it is evident that these artworks originate from this period.<\/p>\n<p>With the discovery of artistic objects and artifacts from the same era, we can also infer that famous paintings such as\u300a\u8662\u56fd\u592b\u4eba\u6e38\u6625\u56fe\u300b(gu\u00f3 gu\u00f3 f\u016b r\u00e9n y\u00f3u ch\u016bn t\u00fa) by Zhang Xuan (\u5f20\u8431) and\u300a\u5bab\u4e50\u56fe\u300b(g\u014dng l\u00e8 t\u00fa) by an anonymous artist were likely created during the same period.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1357\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1357\" style=\"width: 280px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-n.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1357\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-n.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - n\" width=\"280\" height=\"497\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-n.png 280w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-n-169x300.png 169w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 280px) 100vw, 280px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1357\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female during the Zhenyuan period (Song dynasty copy of\u300a\u8662\u56fd\u592b\u4eba\u6e38\u6625\u56fe\u300b\/ Liaoning Provincial Museum) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a92<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In\u300a\u8662\u56fd\u592b\u4eba\u6e38\u6625\u56fe\u300b, the style of the skirt worn by the woman in the painting shows a strong similarity to a physical object found in the Tang Astana tombs in Xinjiang: a silk skirt with pleats at the front, forming a &#8220;skirt gate,&#8221; with folds spreading to the left and right. At the top of the skirt, there is a prominent bow-shaped stitch on the chest area, which also serves as a breast support.<\/p>\n<p>Bai Juyi wrote &#8220;Memories of the Zhenyuan Years (\u5fc6\u5728\u8d1e\u5143\u5c81 ; y\u00ec z\u00e0i zh\u0113n yu\u00e1n su\u00ec)&#8221; in\u300a\u4ee3\u4e66\u8bd7\u4e00\u767e\u97f5\u5bc4\u5fae\u4e4b\u300b(d\u00e0i sh\u016b sh\u012b y\u012b b\u01cei y\u00f9n j\u00ec w\u0113i zh\u012b):<\/p>\n<p><em>\u7c89\u9edb\u51dd\u6625\u6001\uff0c\u91d1\u94bf\u8000\u6c34\u5b09\u3002\u98ce\u6d41\u5938\u5815\u9afb\uff0c\u65f6\u4e16\u6597\u557c\u7709\u3002<br \/>\n&#8220;Powder and makeup form the attitude of spring,<br \/>\nGolden adornments in the hair shine, playing in the water.<br \/>\nThe hairstyle is flowing loose, the trending style is the fallen bun,<br \/>\nAt this time, the eyebrows are drawn as if about to cry.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>In his poem\u300a\u548c\u68a6\u6e38\u6625\u8bd7\u4e00\u767e\u97f5\u300b(h\u00e9 m\u00e8ng y\u00f3u ch\u016bn sh\u012b y\u012b b\u01cei y\u00f9n), written in Chang&#8217;an, Bai Juyi intricately describes the fashion worn during this period:<\/p>\n<p><em>\u98ce\u6d41\u8584\u68b3\u6d17\uff0c\u65f6\u4e16\u5bbd\u5986\u675f\u3002\u8896\u8f6f\u5f02\u6587\u7eeb\uff0c\u88fe\u8f7b\u5355\u4e1d\u6bc5\uff0c\u88d9\u8170\u94f6\u7ebf\u538b\uff0c\u68b3\u638c\u91d1\u7b50\u8e59\u3002\u5e26\u6768\u7d2b\u84b2\u8404\uff0c\u88b4\u82b1\u7ea2\u77f3\u7af9\u3002\u51dd\u60c5\u90fd\u672a\u8bed\uff0c\u4ed8\u610f\u5fae\u76f8\u5631\u3002\u7709\u655b\u8fdc\u5c71\u9752\uff0c\u9b1f\u4f4e\u7247\u4e91\u7eff\u3002<br \/>\n&#8220;Delicate makeup with thin combs,<br \/>\nAt this time, fashion becomes looser and wider.<br \/>\nSoft sleeves made of patterned silk,<br \/>\nA light skirt crafted from thin silk,<br \/>\nThe waist of the skirt was adorned with silver thread,<br \/>\nThe hair bun was neatly arranged with a golden basket.<br \/>\nThe belt is made of purple grapes from the willow tree,<br \/>\nRed trousers are patterned like bamboo stones.<br \/>\nA gaze full of emotion but unspoken,<br \/>\nAttending to one another without words.<br \/>\nThe neatly drawn eyebrows resemble distant blue mountains,<br \/>\nThe hair styled softly like green clouds unraveling.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1361\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1361\" style=\"width: 662px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-j.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-j.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - j\" width=\"662\" height=\"421\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-j.png 662w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-j-300x191.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 662px) 100vw, 662px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1361\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Silk skirt and wearing instructions (Only the waist and part of the skirt remain from the original unearthed from the Tang dynasty tomb in Astana, Turpan, Xinjiang, and the length of the skirt is unknown) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a88<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1360\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1360\" style=\"width: 240px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-k.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1360\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-k.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - k\" width=\"240\" height=\"536\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-k.png 240w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-k-134x300.png 134w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 240px) 100vw, 240px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1360\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Women\u2019s makeup during the Zhenyuan period of Emperor Tang Dezong \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a89<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Women\u2019s Fashion and Makeup During the Reign of Emperor Tang Dezong (Zhenyuan period)<\/p>\n<p>Drawing from the depiction of female donors in murals at Dunhuang from the same period:<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyle and makeup: Hair with cicadas at the temples, buns, and Huadian makeup<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: Wearing a flesh-colored flowered shirt, a green wave-patterned skirt, and a plain gauze Peizi draped over the shoulders.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1359\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1359\" style=\"width: 2560px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-l-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1359\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-l-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - l\" width=\"2560\" height=\"440\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-l-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-l-300x52.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-l-1024x176.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-l-768x132.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-l-1536x264.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-l-2048x352.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1359\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zhou Fang,\u300a\u6325\u6247\u4ed5\u5973\u56fe\u300b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1358\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1358\" style=\"width: 1243px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-m.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1358\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-m.jpg\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - m\" width=\"1243\" height=\"500\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-m.jpg 1243w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-m-300x121.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-m-1024x412.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-m-768x309.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1243px) 100vw, 1243px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1358\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zhou Fang,\u300a\u8c03\u7434\u555c\u8317\u56fe\u300b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1356\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1356\" style=\"width: 634px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-o.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1356\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-o.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - o\" width=\"634\" height=\"469\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-o.png 634w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-o-300x222.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 634px) 100vw, 634px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1356\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female during the Zhenyuan period (Tang dynasty\u300a\u5bab\u4e50\u56fe\u300b\/ Taipei &#8220;National Palace Museum&#8221; collection) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a93<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1355\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1355\" style=\"width: 924px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-p.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1355\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-p.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - p\" width=\"924\" height=\"326\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-p.png 924w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-p-300x106.png 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-p-768x271.png 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 924px) 100vw, 924px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1355\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Side-combed hairstyle during the Dali period \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a93<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1354\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1354\" style=\"width: 1183px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-q.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1354\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-q.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - q\" width=\"1183\" height=\"327\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-q.png 1183w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-q-300x83.png 300w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-q-1024x283.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-q-768x212.png 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1183px) 100vw, 1183px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1354\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hairstyle of the Duo Ma Ji (\u5815\u9a6c\u9afb, Fallen Horse Bun) during the Zhenyuan Period \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a93<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1353\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1353\" style=\"width: 402px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-r.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1353\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-r.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - r\" width=\"402\" height=\"539\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-r.png 402w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-r-224x300.png 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 402px) 100vw, 402px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1353\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Women\u2019s makeup in the late Zhenyuan period of Emperor Tang Dezong \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a94<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Women\u2019s Fashion and Makeup in the Late Zhenyuan Period of Emperor Tang Dezong<\/p>\n<p>Based on references from clay sculptures, paintings, and literary records from the same period, here is a description of women&#8217;s fashion and makeup during this time:<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyle and makeup: \u8749\u9b13 (ch\u00e1n b\u00ecn, which translates to cicada hair) hairstyle, fallen horse bun (\u5815\u9a6c\u9afb ; du\u00f2 m\u01ce j\u00ec)<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: The upper part is wearing bright red clothes, the lower part is a green skirt, purple Peizi on the shoulder<\/p>\n<h4 id=\"xianzongyuanhe\">Emperor Tang Xianzong, Yuanhe Period (806\u2013820)<\/h4>\n<p>During the Zhenyuan period, the light, flowing hairstyles evolved into high, overlapping false buns that covered the top of the head during the Yuanhe period. This style, which was roughly referred to as Nao Sao (\u95f9\u626b ; n\u00e0o s\u01ceo), became fashionable at the time. According to the line &#8220;\u9b1f\u68b3\u95f9\u626b\u5b66\u5bab\u5986 (hu\u00e1n sh\u016b n\u00e0o s\u01ceo xu\u00e9 g\u014dng zhu\u0101ng)&#8221; in the poem\u300a\u68a6\u738b\u5c1a\u4e66\u53e3\u6388\u541f\u300b(m\u00e8ng w\u00e1ng sh\u00e0ng sh\u016b k\u01d2u sh\u00f2u y\u00edn) by Zhang Shinv (\u5f20\u6c0f\u5973 ; Zh\u0101ng Sh\u00ecn\u01da), it is believed that this style began to gain popularity within the imperial palace.<\/p>\n<p>In his poem\u300a\u6c5f\u5357\u559c\u9022\u8427\u4e5d\u5f7b,\u56e0\u8bdd\u957f\u5b89\u65e7\u6e38\u300b(ji\u0101ng n\u00e1n x\u01d0 f\u00e9ng xi\u0101o ji\u01d4 ch\u00e8, y\u012bn hu\u00e0 ch\u00e1ng&#8217;\u0101n ji\u00f9 y\u00f3u), Bai Juyi reminisces about the appearance of the women in Pingkang Fang during the Yuanhe period:<\/p>\n<p><em>\u65f6\u4e16\u9ad8\u68b3\u9afb\uff0c\u98ce\u6d41\u6fb9\u4f5c\u5986\u3002\u6234\u82b1\u7ea2\u77f3\u7af9\uff0c\u5e14\u6655\u7d2b\u69df\u6994\u3002\u9b13\u52a8\u60ac\u8749\u7ffc\uff0c\u9497\u5782\u5c0f\u51e4\u884c\u3002\u62c2\u80f8\u8f7b\u7c89\u7d6e\uff0c\u6696\u624b\u5c0f\u9999\u56ca\u3002<br \/>\n&#8220;At that time, the hair was styled high, with makeup done lightly and elegantly. Flowers and red stones were worn, and the robe was adorned with patterns of purple betel nut. The hair on the sides of the head moved like grasshopper wings, with hairpins shaped like small phoenixes. A light touch of powder on the chest, and a small fragrant pouch held in the hand.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Women of this period wore simple makeup on their faces, but it was paired with high, striking hairdos and brightly colored, expansive clothing designs.<\/p>\n<p>This &#8220;strange beauty&#8221; style did not conform to traditional aesthetic standards. Feeling influenced by the trends of the time, Yuan Zhen (\u5143\u7a39) wrote in\u300a\u53d9\u8bd7\u5bc4\u4e50\u5929\u4e66\u300b(x\u00f9 sh\u012b j\u00ec l\u00e8 ti\u0101n sh\u016b) in the seventh year of the Yuanhe period (812):<\/p>\n<p><em>\u8fd1\u4e16\u5987\u4eba\uff0c\u6655\u6de1\u7709\u76ee\uff0c\u7efe\u7ea6\u5934\u9aee\uff0c\u8863\u670d\u4fee\u5e7f\u4e4b\u5ea6\uff0c\u53ca\u5339\u914d\u8272\u6cfd\uff0c\u5c24\u5267\u602a\u8273\uff0c\u56e0\u4e3a\u8273\u8bd7\u767e\u4f59\u9996\u3002<br \/>\n&#8220;Today&#8217;s women shape their eyebrows and eyes faintly,<br \/>\nThe hair is styled simply,<br \/>\nClothing is tailored to both narrow and wide proportions,<br \/>\nWith colors and styles that are extremely striking and strange,<br \/>\nTo the point that more than a hundred poems about beauty have been written.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>However, despite the &#8220;strange&#8221; styling that Yuan Zhen found so peculiar, it remained popular, and he eventually wrote the poem\u300a\u6709\u6240\u6559\u300b(y\u01d2u su\u01d2 ji\u00e0o), attempting to offer guidance to women on how to dress and style themselves:<\/p>\n<p><em>\u83ab\u753b\u957f\u7709\u753b\u77ed\u7709\uff0c\u659c\u7ea2\u4f24\u7ad6\u83ab\u4f24\u5782\u3002\u4eba\u4eba\u603b\u89e3\u4e89\u65f6\u52bf\uff0c\u90fd\u5927\u987b\u770b\u5404\u81ea\u5b9c\u3002<br \/>\n&#8220;Do not draw eyebrows too long or too short,<br \/>\nDo not apply rouge in the wrong places.<br \/>\nEveryone must know how to follow the times,<br \/>\nBut most importantly, one must choose what suits oneself.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Although many people rush to follow trends, it remains essential to pay attention to what is truly suitable for oneself.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1352\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1352\" style=\"width: 241px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-s.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1352\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-s.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - s\" width=\"241\" height=\"518\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-s.png 241w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-s-140x300.png 140w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 241px) 100vw, 241px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1352\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female during the Yuanhe period \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a95<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1351\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1351\" style=\"width: 245px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-t.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1351\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-t.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - t\" width=\"245\" height=\"547\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-t.png 245w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-t-134x300.png 134w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 245px) 100vw, 245px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1351\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Women\u2019s makeup during the Yuanhe period of Emperor Tang Xianzong \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a96<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Women\u2019s Hairstyle and Fashion During the Yuanhe Period of Emperor Tang Xianzong<\/p>\n<p>Referring to the depictions of women from the same period, as recorded in poems and texts:<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyle and makeup: Hair tied into a round bun, no red powder, eyebrows drawn in a curved shape, and using black oil to tidy up the hair<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: Wearing a green dress with wide sleeves, a long skirt with floral patterns, and a purple Peizi decorated with betel nut patterns on the shoulders<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1350\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1350\" style=\"width: 290px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-u.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-u.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - u\" width=\"290\" height=\"534\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-u.png 290w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-u-163x300.png 163w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 290px) 100vw, 290px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1350\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female during the Yuanhe period \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a96<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In the late Yuanhe period, women&#8217;s hairstyles and makeup became increasingly extravagant and flashy.<\/p>\n<p>As described by Bai Juyi (\u767d\u5c45\u6613 ; B\u00e1i J\u016by\u00ec) in his poem\u300a\u65f6\u4e16\u5986\u300b(sh\u00ed sh\u00ec zhu\u0101ng), which he wrote for &#8220;\u4ebb\u656c\u620e\u4e5f&#8221;:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;Trends of the times, trends of the times,<br \/>\nStarting in the city, and spreading everywhere.<br \/>\nThis trend becomes popular without distance,<br \/>\nNo rouge on the cheeks, the face without powder,<br \/>\nThe lips are coated with black oil, looking like clay,<br \/>\nThe eyebrows were drawn low, resembling the number eight.<br \/>\nBeauty and imperfection, black and white,<br \/>\nEverything loses its original form,<br \/>\nThe makeup makes the face appear as if holding back tears.<br \/>\nThe hair is styled in a round, loose bun,<br \/>\nWith uneven red tones on a face that seems dark.<br \/>\nI once heard stories of loose hair in Yichuan,<br \/>\nAnd when Xin You saw it, he knew it was a soldier\u2019s style.<br \/>\nRemember the hairstyle and makeup of the Yuanhe period,<br \/>\nThe round bun and dark face were not an elegant trend.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>To support his poetic reflection with historical evidence, a similar account is found in\u300a\u65b0\u5510\u4e66\u00b7\u4e94\u884c\u5fd7\u300b(x\u012bn t\u00e1ng sh\u016b \u00b7 w\u01d4 h\u00e1ng zh\u00ec):<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;At the end of the Yuanhe period, women wore round buns and sharp buns, without jewelry in their hair, no rouge on their faces, only black oil on the lips, making their faces appear as if holding back tears. The round buns were not naturally made, and the face, which seemed to be crying, depicted deep sorrow.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The women of this period did not use rouge on their faces at all, with no makeup except for black oil on their lips. Their eyebrows were drawn low in a shape resembling the number eight, with hair at the sides of the head loosely falling in a way that resembled horns. There were no ornaments, and the hair on top of the head was styled into a high and sharp bun, which was then gathered into a round bun at the back.<\/p>\n<h4 id=\"muzongchangqing\">Emperor Tang Muzong, Changqing period (821-824)<\/h4>\n<p>In the Changqing period of Emperor Tang Muzong, the wind of luxury grew stronger.<\/p>\n<p>Women&#8217;s hairstyles became prominent again with the use of small combs tucked in and various kinds of head jewelry.<\/p>\n<p>In\u300a\u5510\u8bed\u6797\u00b7\u8865\u9057\u4e8c\u300b(t\u00e1ng y\u01d4 l\u00edn \u00b7 b\u01d4 y\u00ed \u00e8r), a record from the Song dynasty, Wang Shuo (\u738b\u8bf4 ; W\u00e1ng Shu\u014d) noted this excessive trend:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;In the Changqing period, women in the capital wore jewelry made of gold, gems, and precious stones, with hairpins, combs, and moving ornaments. All were complete and beautiful, referred to as &#8216;Bai Bu Zhi (\u767e\u4e0d\u77e5 ; b\u01cei b\u00f9 zh\u012b)&#8217;.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1349\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1349\" style=\"width: 285px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-v.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1349\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-v.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - v\" width=\"285\" height=\"518\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-v.png 285w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-v-165x300.png 165w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 285px) 100vw, 285px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1349\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bai Bu Zhi (\u767e\u4e0d\u77e5) style step-shaking (Buyao \u6b65\u6447) ornaments \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a97<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>During this time, the fashion in Chang&#8217;an involved adorning hairpins, combs, and moving ornaments with various precious gems such as gold, jade, and pearls. The style known as &#8220;Bai Bu Zhi&#8221; became an iconic trend, representing an elaborate and ostentatious approach to beauty.<\/p>\n<p>This style is also found in the tomb of Lady Qi (\u9f50\u56fd\u592a\u592b\u4eba ; q\u00ed gu\u00f3 t\u00e0i f\u016b r\u00e9n) of the Wang Chengzong family, Wu Shi (\u5434\u6c0f ; W\u00fa sh\u00ec), located in Longqing, Yichuan, Luoyang, dating to the fourth year of the Changqing period (824). In the tomb, various &#8220;Buyao (\u6b65\u6447 ; b\u00f9 y\u00e1o)&#8221; ornaments with golden frames decorated with precious stones were discovered.<\/p>\n<p>A similar occurrence can be found overseas\u2014an ornate comb from the Silla Kingdom of Korea, dating roughly to the same time as the Tang dynasty, was made of gold and adorned with a jade plate shaped like a turtle shell, also featuring &#8220;Buyao (\u6b65\u6447)&#8221; on the back of the comb.<\/p>\n<p>The &#8220;Buyao&#8221; on the Silla comb closely resembles those found in the tomb of Lady Qi, which suggests that the jewelry worn by women in Silla was very similar to the Tang dynasty&#8217;s style, further illustrating the widespread popularity of the &#8220;Bai Bu Zhi&#8221; trend during this period.<\/p>\n<p>At the same time, the style of women&#8217;s makeup became increasingly bizarre. In\u300a\u5510\u8bed\u6797\u300b(t\u00e1ng y\u01d4 l\u00edn) it is recorded:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;Women removed their eyebrows, then drew three or four horizontal lines in red and purple above and below their eyes, known as &#8216;Xie Yun Zhuang (\u8840\u6655\u5986 ; xi\u011b y\u00f9n zhu\u0101ng)&#8217;.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>This means that women shaved off their eyebrows and drew several long, red, and purple streaks above and below their eyes, resembling dried blood or bruises, which gave the appearance of halted bleeding.<\/p>\n<p>This makeup style can be observed in the wall paintings of the tomb of Zhao Yigong (\u8d75\u9038\u516c ; Zh\u00e0o Y\u00ecg\u014dng) in Anyang, Henan, dating to the third year of the Taihe period (829). In the painting, women are depicted with their hair styled in a high, sharp bun known as \u690e\u9afb (zhu\u012b j\u00ec), with their hair cascading down the back. Small combs are inserted in tiers atop the bun. Below and above their eyes, two to three long lines in red and purple are drawn, representing the &#8220;Xie Yun Zhuang&#8221; makeup style.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1348\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1348\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-w.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1348\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-w.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - w\" width=\"500\" height=\"406\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-w.png 500w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-w-300x244.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1348\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bai Buzhi (\u767e\u4e0d\u77e5) style comb (Collection of \u4e09\u661f\u535a\u7269\u9986, South Korea) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a98<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1347\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1347\" style=\"width: 700px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-x.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1347\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-x.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - x\" width=\"700\" height=\"436\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-x.png 700w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-x-300x187.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1347\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female in Changqing style (Murals in the tomb of Zhao Yi in Anyang, Henan in the third year of Taihe reign of Emperor Tang Wenzong (829)) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a98<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1346\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1346\" style=\"width: 402px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-y.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1346\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-y.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - y\" width=\"402\" height=\"574\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-y.png 402w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-y-210x300.png 210w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 402px) 100vw, 402px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1346\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Women\u2019s makeup during the Changqing period of Emperor Tang Muzong \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a99<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The Makeup and Clothing Style of Women during the Changqing Period of Emperor Muzong of the Tang Dynasty<\/p>\n<p>Referring to murals from the same period and images of R\u00f3uq\u012bng in the poem\u300a\u5632\u98de\u537f\u4e03\u9996\u300b(ch\u00e1o f\u0113i q\u012bng q\u012b sh\u01d2u) by Duan Chengshi (\u6bb5\u6210\u5f0f ; Du\u00e0n Ch\u00e9ngsh\u00ec)<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyle and makeup: Hair tied up in a \u690e\u9afb (zhu\u012b j\u00ec ; sharp bun), hair loose in a \u4e1b\u9b1f (c\u00f3ng hu\u00e1n ; layered bun), adorned with &#8220;Bai Bu Zhi \u767e\u4e0d\u77e5&#8221; jewelry, eyebrows drawn in a low arch like a figure eight, forehead decorated with \u8776\u94bf (di\u00e9 di\u00e0n ; butterfly-shaped ornament), using Xie Yun Zhuang \u8840\u6655\u5986 makeup, and lips painted with black oil.<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: Wearing a dark red shirt with fish patterns, a purple skirt, and a colorful Peizi with beautiful embroidery on the shoulders.<\/p>\n<h4 id=\"wenzongtaihe\">Emperor Tang Wenzong, Taihe Period (827-835)<\/h4>\n<p>At the beginning of Emperor Tang Wenzong&#8217;s reign, he became deeply disillusioned with the excessive and extravagant trends in vehicle and clothing styles that were spreading across the country. As a result, he decided to implement a comprehensive policy of austerity, from the top down.<\/p>\n<p>The first system related to this was applied within the royal family.<\/p>\n<p>In the second year of the Taihe period (828), in the 5th month, Emperor Wenzong issued an order that read:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;All regions are requested to donate goods to the imperial treasury, including gold and silver decorations for the celebration of the four seasons and births, as well as items such as robes, woven fabrics, and other goods, which will be used to purchase silver and silk fabrics. After five years, this policy will be reviewed.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>At the same time, the emperor observed the simple clothing and lifestyle of his aunt, Princess Hanyang (\u6c49\u9633\u516c\u4e3b ; H\u00e0n Y\u00e1ng G\u014dngzh\u01d4), who had married during the Zhenyuan period (785) and continued to maintain that simple style of dress throughout his reign.<\/p>\n<p>The style of the Zhenyuan period greatly impressed Wenzong. Therefore, in the same year, on the Ding Si day (\u4e01\u5df3 ; d\u012bng s\u00ec), Wenzong issued an order to the royal princesses, instructing them to emulate the simple and modest style of Princess Hanyang&#8217;s clothing from the Zhenyuan period.<\/p>\n<p>On one hand, Wenzong restricted the use of excessive jewelry: <em>&#8220;From now on, at every event, no more than a few hairpins and combs should be used.&#8221;<\/em> On the other hand, he also allowed some leniency so that the princesses were not required to be as austere as Princess Hanyang: <em>&#8220;There is no need to wear clothes that are too short or tight.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The system was then expanded to include officials and noble relatives:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;(Third year of Taihe, ninth month) Xin Si, an order was issued to both armies, various institutions, and palace officials to refrain from wearing clothing such as thick silk and other satin fabrics.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;(Eleventh month, Jia Shen) Throughout the country, items made of new patterns should not be sent as tributes, such as fine threads, floral fabrics, and satin. All of these must be prohibited. This order will be in effect until the first month, and all threads should be burned.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>In the sixth year of Taihe (832), in the sixth month, on the Wu Yin day, Emperor Wenzong ordered Wang Ya (\u738b\u6daf ; W\u00e1ng Y\u00e1), who was then serving as the Left Minister (\u5c1a\u4e66\u5de6\u4ec6\u5c04 ; sh\u00e0ng sh\u016b zu\u01d2 p\u016b sh\u00e8), to regulate the clothing system. In the draft of the regulations, Wang Ya even specifically issued several provisions concerning women&#8217;s makeup\u2014at that time, women&#8217;s clothing had become even more extravagant and striking compared to before.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1345\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1345\" style=\"width: 575px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1345\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - z\" width=\"575\" height=\"529\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z.png 575w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-300x276.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 575px) 100vw, 575px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1345\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female during the Taihe era \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a101<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_1344\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1344\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-a.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1344\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-a.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - z-a\" width=\"600\" height=\"456\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-a.png 600w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-a-300x228.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1344\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Female during the Taihe period (Murals from the Tang dynasty Tomb of Hanjiawan in Xi&#8217;an, Shaanxi) \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a102 (taken from \u9655\u897f\u7701\u8003\u53e4\u7814\u7a76\u9662 . \u897f\u5b89\u957f\u5b89 \u533a\u97e9\u5bb6\u6e7e\u5893\u5730\u53d1\u6398\u62a5\u544a [M]. \u897f\u5b89\uff1a\u4e09\u6cf0\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2018.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>Compared to the mural images from the tombs of the late Tang dynasty in Hanjiawan (\u97e9\u5bb6\u6e7e ; h\u00e1n ji\u0101 w\u0101n), Shaanxi, it can be observed that during this period, the hairstyle of noblewomen was the &#8220;high and curved style,&#8221; which featured a high bun supported by hairpins and pins to stand upright on top of the head. The side hair was divided into two layers and arranged around the face with long pins and needles.<\/p>\n<p>As for the face, there was the practice of &#8220;removing the eyebrows and exposing the forehead,&#8221; meaning the natural eyebrows were shaved off, and the hair at the front of the forehead was also shaved to shift the hairline, making the forehead appear wider.<\/p>\n<p>The &#8220;blood-red makeup (\u8840\u6655\u5986)&#8221; style, which had been popular during the Changqing period, was now outdated. In this period, the focus of makeup shifted to drawing thick, eight-shaped eyebrows on the wide forehead.<\/p>\n<p>As mentioned in\u300a\u5bab\u4e2d\u66f2\u300b(g\u014dng zh\u014dng q\u016b) by Xu Ning (\u5f90\u51dd ; X\u00fa N\u00edng), a woman of great beauty discarded her old makeup, which gave her face a twilight glow when attending a banquet in the palace. Instead, she drew thick black eyebrows, a style that was then followed by all the women in the palace:<\/p>\n<p><em>\u62ab\u9999\u4f8d\u5bb4\u63d2\u5c71\u82b1\uff0c\u538c\u8457\u9f99\u7ee1\u8457\u8d8a\u7eb1\u3002\u6043\u8d56\u503e\u57ce\u4eba\u4e0d\u53ca\uff0c\u6a80\u5986\u552f\u7ea6\u6570\u6761\u971e\u3002\u8eab\u8f7b\u5165\u5ba0\u5c3d\u6069\u79c1\uff0c\u8170\u7ec6\u504f\u80fd\u821e\u67d8\u679d\u3002\u4e00\u65e5\u65b0\u5986\u629b\u65e7\u6837\uff0c\u516d\u5bab\u4e89\u753b\u9ed1\u70df\u7709\u3002<\/em><br \/>\n<em>&#8220;Combing her fragrant hair at the banquet and planting mountain flowers, tired of the dragon silk cloth, nothing could match her beauty. Her sandalwood makeup only had a few traces of the twilight glow. Her body was light, deeply cherished, with a slender waist that moved with grace. One day, she replaced her old makeup with a new one, and all the women of the palace scrambled to draw thick black eyebrows.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The concubines and wives of nobles wore very loose clothing, with sleeves as wide as three or four feet, and long dresses that trailed on the ground, over four feet in length.<\/p>\n<p>They often wore silk and satin as fabric for their clothing, with patterns decorated through weaving techniques.<\/p>\n<p>To make it easier to walk with their long, trailing dresses, many of them wore high, woven grass sandals made in the Jiangnan region.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1343\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1343\" style=\"width: 405px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-b.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1343\" src=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-b.png\" alt=\"Zhang Ruying - Zhang Ruying\u2019s Notes: From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing (Middle Tang Dynasty) - z-b\" width=\"405\" height=\"572\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-b.png 405w, https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/zhangruying-Zhang-Ruyings-Notes-From\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300bClothing-Middle-Tang-Dynasty-z-b-212x300.png 212w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 405px) 100vw, 405px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1343\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Women\u2019s makeup during the Taihe period of Emperor Tang Wenzong \u2014 \u5de6\u4e18\u840c \/ \u672b\u6625 . \u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c . \u6e05\u534e\u5927\u5b66\u51fa\u7248\u793e\uff0c2020\uff1a104<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Women&#8217;s Makeup and Clothing Style during the Taihe Period of Emperor Tang Wenzong<\/p>\n<p>Referring to mural images from the same period and depictions of women found in Duan Chengshi&#8217;s poems\u300a\u67d4\u537f\u89e3\u7c4d\u620f\u5448\u98de\u537f\u300band\u300a\u620f\u9ad8\u4f8d\u5fa1\u300b.<\/p>\n<p>Hairstyle and makeup: Hair in a high bun, two layers of curled side hair, with many pins and combs (the jewelry used is larger, referring to the jewelry found in the murals and jewelry objects found in the tomb); eyebrows are drawn with thick black shapes, and lips are smeared with black ointment.<\/p>\n<p>Clothing: Wearing a light green spring silk dress with dragonfly patterns, and a saffron-colored satin skirt with graceful flower patterns, coupled with a light green silk Peizi.<\/p>\n<p>In response to the excessive, strange, and extravagant fashion of women, Emperor Wenzong accepted the regulations drafted by Wang Ya and issued an order to enforce them throughout the country:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;Women&#8217;s clothing should be made with a width not exceeding five finger widths, the length of the dress that drags on the ground should not be more than three inches, and sleeves like orange sleeves should not be wider than one and a half feet.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Women&#8217;s hairstyles that are high and excessive makeup, such as removing the eyebrows and exposing the forehead, follow the trend and disrupt the usual etiquette; excessive expenditure on gold and silver jewelry is also requested to be prohibited.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Makeup and accessories such as hairpins, combs, and others, are requested to follow the old rules of the Zhenyuan period. After the order is issued, all institutions and local governments are requested to announce this, with a one-month deadline for improvements.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Furthermore, in the Wu and Yue regions, the making of high-headed grass footwear woven like thick silk, which did not exist in previous times, consumes a lot of time, harms labor, and is very luxurious and complicated, is requested to be stopped.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>It is requested that each local official immediately supervise and prohibit this on the same day. For multi-colored footwear or high-headed footwear, as well as small grass footwear with flowers, they should still follow the old rules, while the rest should be regulated according to existing provisions.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>With the implementation of this system, expressions started to emerge from the people saying that &#8216;customs have changed&#8217; and &#8216;there are no longer great customs, which are gradually diminishing.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p>However, Emperor Wenzong realized that even though there were regulations, people still secretly violated them, and the royal family and nobility still lived luxuriously.<\/p>\n<p>Therefore, he only &#8216;reduced the excess,&#8217; that is, eliminated the overly conspicuous luxury, &#8216;to change it with simplicity.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p>On the fifteenth night of the first lunar month in the fourth year of the Kaicheng reign (839), Emperor Wenzong watched the Lantern Festival at the Xiantai Hall, attended by the empresses and princesses.<\/p>\n<p>When he saw that Princess Yan&#8217;an&#8217;s dress was too wide and loose, he immediately scolded her and expelled her, saying that the princess\u2019s clothing exceeded the rules, and ordered her husband (D\u00f2u Hu\u00e0n \u7aa6\u6fa3), to be fined for two months\u2019 worth of salary as punishment.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps because he saw that the Emperor strictly imposed punishment just because the princess&#8217;s clothes were too wide, this truly demonstrated his determination to uphold simplicity. Therefore, in 2nd month of the same year, Li Deyu (\u674e\u5fb7\u88d5 ; L\u01d0 D\u00e9y\u00f9), the Governor of Huainan, specifically reported to Emperor Wenzong that women&#8217;s clothing in the region was too wide, which did not support a frugal lifestyle, and he ordered restrictions:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;Regarding women&#8217;s clothing, long dresses with large sleeves, the court system has not yet been applied, as a small servant, I, by the will of heaven, among the villagers, their sleeves are four feet wide, now I order them to be limited to one and a half feet; dresses that drag four feet, now I order them to drag only five inches. This is related to the reform, and I do not dare not report it.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>However, what the leader of the country suggested could not suppress the shared passion of society at that time.<\/p>\n<p>After Emperor Wenzong&#8217;s reign, the trend of luxury in the Yuanhe style revived.<\/p>\n<p>In the late Tang dynasty mural paintings, there are many images of women with their hair adorned with many pins and combs, wearing dresses with large and long sleeves.<\/p>\n<p>Even during the Five Dynasties period, this trend persisted\u2014an intellectual named Chen Tao (\u9648\u9676 ; Ch\u00e9n T\u00e1o), who traveled to Western Shu (\u897f\u8700 ; x\u012b sh\u01d4), heard a woman named Jin Wuyun (\u91d1\u4e94\u4e91 ; J\u012bn W\u01d4y\u00fan) singing at a banquet hosted by the King of Shu. Wuyun said that she had once been a concubine in the Tang palace, but due to war, she was stranded among the common people and eventually arrived in Western Shu.<\/p>\n<p>Her makeup, in the eyes of Chen Tao, still looked like the Yuanhe style: <em>&#8216;Old makeup with pins and combs, light clothing, and Yuanhe makeup with dark blue eyebrows. The hair is slightly loose, a slim body, with teeth as beautiful as ivory and fingers holding mountain ginseng.&#8217;<\/em><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h4>And here we are, at the end of this 4th journey\u2014<\/h4>\n<p>I hope these notes are helpful and inspire you to explore more about traditional Chinese clothing, particularly from the Tang dynasty. If you notice any incorrect word \/ translation, or if you have any suggestions, please don\u2019t hesitate to reach me out via <a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/contact\">email<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Thank you so much for your time, and I\u2019ll do my best to keep these updated for the next part. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/category\/zhang-ruyings-notes\">#ZhangRuying\u2019sNotes<\/a><\/p>\n<p>See you in the next notes. And thank you \u8c22\u8c22!<\/p>\n<p>\u5f20\u5112\u82f1 Zhang Ruying<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Table of Contents Introduction About\u300a\u4e2d\u56fd\u5986\u675f\uff1a\u5927\u5510\u5973\u513f\u884c\u300b Middle Tang Dynasty: Clothing Changes To A New Style In Yuanhe Emperor Tang Daizong, Dali&#46;&#46;&#46;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":38,"featured_media":1374,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,1006],"tags":[1001,1020,1017,1016,1021,619,85,86,122,73,1019,1000,1018,1004,1005],"class_list":["post-1342","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-traditional-chinese-fashion","category-zhang-ruyings-notes","tag-1001","tag-changqing-era","tag-dali-era","tag-middle-tang-dynasty","tag-taihe-era","tag-tang-dynasty","tag-tang-dynasty-hairstyle","tag-tang-dynasty-hanfu","tag-tang-dynasty-headwear","tag-tang-dynasty-makeup","tag-yuanhe-era","tag-zhang-ruyings-notes","tag-zhenyuan-era","tag-1004","tag-1005"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1342","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/38"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1342"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1342\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1374"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1342"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1342"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zhangruying.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1342"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}